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  #1  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:57 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default Breakable splices for avionics

I have a few different avionics that need to talk to each other (like the two green and black wires coming out of my Dynon encoder module that connect to the Dynon DB 25 harness) that I don't want to connect permanently in the event that I need pull one or the other units out. For larger bundles of wires I'd use a 9-pin d-sub connector but, in cases like the above, it's just a matter of connecting one or two wires at a time.

What's the best way to connect these small wires one or two at a time? I read the article where Bob Nuckoll's recommends d-sub pins and sleeves by themselves (w/clear shrinkwrap), but I don't have the crimping tools to do this. (I've been soldering my d-subs thus far.) Are there other good options?

Thanks.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 11-20-2008 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:34 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Smile Soldering the crimps...

Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
I have a few different avionics that need to talk to each other (like the two green and black wires coming out of my Dynon encoder module that connect to the Dynon DB 25 harness) that I don't want to connect permanently in the event that I need pull one or the other units out. For larger bundles of wires I'd use a 9-pin d-sub connector but, in cases like the above, it's just a matter of connecting one or two wires at a time.

What's the best way to connect these small wires one or two at a time? I read the article where Bob Nuckoll's recommends d-sub pins and sleeves by themselves (w/clear shrinkwrap), but I don't have the crimping tools to do this. (I've been soldering my d-subs thus far.) Are there other good options?

Thanks.
...would be OK if you add heat shrink tube over the assembly.

If you need to take them apart, just carefully cut the shrink tube...

Another option would be a Deans connector from the model RC store....

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Last edited by az_gila : 11-20-2008 at 06:36 PM. Reason: added pic
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2008, 06:41 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Default Knife Splices work

You can use knife splices with sleeves tied over them for short protection. That is what I use for my wing tip lights to make my tip tanks and stock tips removable. You can buy them from Aircraft Spruce but they call them something else as I recall.

Bob Axsom
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:46 PM
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mannanj mannanj is offline
 
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Location: Mtns of N.E. Georgia
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Default Splices

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Axsom View Post
You can use knife splices with sleeves tied over them for short protection. That is what I use for my wing tip lights to make my tip tanks and stock tips removable. You can buy them from Aircraft Spruce but they call them something else as I recall.

Bob Axsom
Knife (Handshake) splices work well for the this purpose if you are removing and replacing tips/tailcone often. Even then they're not bulletproof.

I was helping a friend with an annual inspection on a Beechcraft Baron last week and the white tail position light was inop. No voltage at the center post. Pulled the tailcone off and wiggled the knife splice around a bit and now we have voltage.

My preference is to use crimp style butt splices. Be sure to have more than adequate wire length so that you can remove and replace the tips/tailcone several times. Just cut the butt splice off as short as you can, then crimp the wires together with new butt splices when you replace the part.

With properly assembled butt splices, you know that you have a good connection.
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