switch-strip

prkaye · #1 11-13-2008, 08:28 AM

I'm planning to do a recessed strip below my main panel, only for switches. My plungers (throttle, mixture etc) will go on a centre console I'm making.
My question, what's the minimum width (height) I should make thie switch strip? It needs to accommodate a row including keyed ignition, split master/bat switch and a bunch of labelled toggles. 1.5 inches enough?

Also, I don't have a bending brake. Wondering the best way to fabricate the switch strip...

USCANAM · #2 11-13-2008, 09:29 AM

Here's a shot taken when we were building the panel on our 9A.

By USCANAM
Even though I have a brake, there are two problems with using a brake for this application
1. It's difficult to get the part to be absolutely without a slight warp,and
2. If using 2024, you can't get sharp bends without cracking.
What we did is use 1/2x1/2x .063 aluminum angle, and rivet it top and bottom to .063" aluminum to form a channel.
You can see the subpanel where we used this technique. Once painted, you cannot see the flush rivets.
Simple!!

Hope this helps
Jack

prkaye · #3 11-13-2008, 09:54 AM

Thanks Jack... I like that solution. Question though... why bother with the angle along the bottom of the strip?

DGlaeser · #4 11-13-2008, 10:00 AM

I made my sub-panel 2" tall to accomodate the switches. I have a friend with a brake, so I made it out of 0.063" and made the flanges about 0.75". I bent the top flange forward to hook onto the aft flange on the IP. The lower flange is bent back just like the IP.
I did mine in 2 pieces because of cost. I got a 2'x2' piece of AL from ACS - something 4' long is way more expensive. I put my Throttle right in the middle so it hides the joint (I only have a throttle with my Subaru engine).
You could do something similar with a flat vertical piece and angles, but you might have to trim the angles to clear the switches (no problem, just work).
I used an egraved plastic overlay for labeling, and cut out the sub-panel behind the lettering for backlighting. I'm quite pleased with how it came out.

prkaye · #5 11-13-2008, 10:14 AM

Quote:

I used an egraved plastic overlay for labeling, and cut out the sub-panel behind the lettering for backlighting

Hmmm, I never considered lighting for the strip. Being recessed, it might be hard to see in teh dark. I dont' want to do anything as fancy as backlit engraved plastic overlays... any ideas/tips for a simpler lighting solution for a recessed switch-strip?

Mel · #6 11-13-2008, 10:32 AM

You guys be careful adding real estate to the bottom of the panel. Especially if you have a slider. It is difficult enough to get under the panel as designed. And trust me, YOU WILL NEED TO GET UNDER THERE!

N941WR · #7 11-13-2008, 11:00 AM

Phil,

I just checked and the sub-panel is 2", as mentioned above.

For lighting I used a 1/2" strip of red electrolumincent tape affixed to the relief. It came out orange in this picture I took, looking up at the throttle quadrant. It is also tied into the dimmer and works great.

Fabian at Affordable Panels had the stuff I used. He doesn't list it on his site so you will have to email him, or find it somewhere else.

To secure the sub-panel, I recommend using hardware store aluminum angle and lots of plate nuts. The plate nuts are so you can remove it easily for future maintenance and upgrades. The hardware store AA does not have a radius, thus two pieces can be nested easier and since this is not a high stress area, they will work just fine.

I riveted the two AA sections together to form a Z-channel and screwed it to the back of my panel and the back of the sub-panel. You can see the screws in the picture I posted. Since you are using the Van's panel, your installation should be slightly different than mine, meaning you should be able to get away with just one piece of hardware store AA.

DGlaeser · #8 11-13-2008, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prkaye

Hmmm, I never considered lighting for the strip. Being recessed, it might be hard to see in teh dark. I dont' want to do anything as fancy as backlit engraved plastic overlays... any ideas/tips for a simpler lighting solution for a recessed switch-strip?

It's actually very easy to see in the dark, but the recess does block the very top, so I put all my label wording on the bottom (can't post pics at the moment).
You can use the LED strips Van's sells (also available cheaper at fiberopticproducts.com) attached the same way N941WR mounted his strips. Make sure they are on a dimmer 'cause they are plenty bright!

prkaye · #9 11-13-2008, 11:22 AM

Thanks bill, that's a great looking solution. I like your strip too.

Quote:

Fabian...so you will have to email him

I've given up on him... I've been waiting for a response to a couple of emails for over 2 weeks. Not even an acknowledgement. I was seriously considering his modular panel, but since he never replied I went ahead and made my own. Took me one evening to do the cutout of the frame (cut out big sections of Vans panels) and I think it looks almost as nice as the Affordable panels one. Pic of mine (literally only 2 hours work)...

N941WR · #10 11-13-2008, 12:11 PM

Phil,

Your panel looks good, serves the same function, and is affordable.

I also used some blue EL strips on the bottom of the roll bar (I have a tip-up) to light the interior when loading the plane at night. Not that I have had a chance to fly at night since it has been flying. These are wired to the always hot bus, so they can be be turned on w/o turning on the master. Just remember to turn them off when finished unloading.

For securing the right stick, I highly recommend using a Quick Release Button Connector as described in this thread.

To connect the right side PTT, I used one of these little red RC battery connectors, available on line or at your local hobby store.