install dipstick tube before hanging engine?

[prkaye]

My dipstick and filler tube came in a seperate box with my engine. Should these be installed prior to hanging the engine, or is it just as easy later?

[jsharkey]

They'll fit later and will just get in the way of fitting the baffles etc - now there is something to look forward to!
Jim Sharkey

[jrvssgl]

Sharky is right. Install after the baffles are complete. Have Fun.

[SportAvServ]

The tube later, but did you check and see if you have the fitting for your oil pressure line installed on the accessory case just under the upper right (looking from the cockpit) engine mount?. Depending on the engine, it could be straight, AN 816-4D or at a 45deg angle, AN 823-4D, with a restrictor in it. You will more than likely have to remove the engine to install the fitting.

Rt

experence speaking

[szicree]

Dipstick can go on later but make sure you've got something plugging the hole. Dropping some baffle hardware in there would be a bad thing.

[noelf]

If the Oil Filler Tube is installed early, you will need to remove the tube later when you fit the baffles, and also when it comes time to attach the large engine ground wire (cable) to the firewall ground location...dependent on engine type.

If you really want to install it now, go ahead. Just don't bother to safety-wire the thing at this point. Later in the build process, having the tube in place will verify the tube to oil access door in the top cowl.

[trib]

When you do install it, do yourself a favor and replace the paper gasket with a silicone ring available at your local auto store. The tubes are known to frequently leak as there is not a lot of compression on the paper gasket.

[Hawkeye7A]

Just a side note on something I discovered. It wasn't too bad a chore to install and safety the oil filler tube after the engine was hung and baffles completed. I did notice that the tube would rotate very slightly when removing the dipstick after I had wired it. I redid it the first cowling removal and it still rotated about 1/8" when removing the dip stick after rewiring it. Using the safety wire pliers to crank the wire clockwise always seems to result in some slack in the wire. This last time after running the wire through the loop on the tube I instead clamped the pliers at the appropriate point on the wire and manually twisted the wire COUNTER-clockwise for the required number of turns and secured it to the loop boss on the case. No more loosening of the tube when removing the stick. It seems that winding the wire clockwise would position it at the wrong location of the hole in the dip stick tube and result in some slack. I guess all the little details count.