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11-05-2008, 06:38 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
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Fuel Tank Access Cover...
Ok, so I may be missing something here, but who knows. I am using float senders... and I'm putting flop tubes in both tanks.... So the sender goes in the second bay yadda yadda... but where do I get the access plate from to cover the inspection hole? IIRC, the only one I have has the holes drilled in it for the sender (from vans)... I dont remember seeing a solid blank plate on my shelves...  |
11-05-2008, 07:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 99
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I don't think you need one
I don't think there is any reason to cut the hole in the rib with your set up. If you already have cut a hole just make a new plate from some scrap and rivet it on with proseal.
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Randy Walls
Cessna 120
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11-05-2008, 07:14 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
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You will need Vans part number T-411.
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now. 
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11-05-2008, 07:40 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airguy
You will need Vans part number T-411.
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 I JUST got my parts order yesterday!!! How come the plans don't tell you these things?????? |
11-05-2008, 07:43 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Walls
I don't think there is any reason to cut the hole in the rib with your set up. If you already have cut a hole just make a new plate from some scrap and rivet it on with proseal.
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I don't have any scrap anywhere near .063....  |
11-05-2008, 12:13 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Daniel,
If you are making a new plate to cover the hole in the inboard rib and nothing will be hanging on it, it doesn't need to be that thick. .032" would work fine.
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Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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11-05-2008, 01:39 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel
Daniel,
If you are making a new plate to cover the hole in the inboard rib and nothing will be hanging on it, it doesn't need to be that thick. .032" would work fine.
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Gracias Mel, I already ordered the T-411's... Wonder if I can atleast get some credit if I send mine back... what sucks is one of them has been matchdrilled and deburred when match drilling the flange that holds the platenuts.  |
11-05-2008, 09:09 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rome, Georgia
Posts: 33
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Same situation
Daniel,
I had the same issue just several weeks ago. As you, I ordered the blank cover. I used the original cover to make a reinforcement plate to mount the sending unit on the rear baffle. I'm not sure if the reinforcement is needed, but mounting the unit directly to the baffle seemed a little "flimsy".
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Chris Williams
Rome, Georgia
RV-7 N129AW -Reserved
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11-06-2008, 05:59 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: newnan.ga
Posts: 426
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Daniel - I just went through this. I made plates from scrap. Check out the link in my sig. And the T-411 is in the plans - look in the text on page 7-6 about halfway down (my rev is 3/2/06).
I did use the plate with holes in it to match drill the baffle for the float type sensor.
In response to Chris - I mounted my sender directly to the baffle with no reinforcement - seems stiff enough with the baffle riveted together.
Last edited by DaX : 11-06-2008 at 06:03 AM.
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