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  #1  
Old 10-30-2008, 01:34 PM
Brantel's Avatar
Brantel Brantel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
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Default New Baffle Kit Details?

Does anyone have detailed pics on their web build logs on how they completed one of the new baffle kits? All the old faithfull sites have been obsoleted with this new technology!

Anyone got a ton of pics that want's to invest some time to post them here?
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2008, 02:13 PM
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jthocker jthocker is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Default New kit rocks

Brian
The new kit and instructions are very easy to understand. Just dive right in and you'll be done in no time. The hardest part is making the curved cone shaped "corner" on the outboard side of the inlet ramps.
The new kit is a HUGE improvement over the old one.
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2008, 02:27 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default

I agree it looks a ton better! I have been working with it but I have some fit issues around the back of the engine and I did'nt know if it is me making a mistake or if these areas still need to be trimmed to fit.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2008, 02:27 PM
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DarylT DarylT is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 438
Default parts or instructions

Is the instructions that are better or has there been parts upgrade as well?
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2008, 02:32 PM
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Default

Total redesign of the kit, parts and plans.

The parts are way different, it includes an oil cooler reinforcement, air diverters for the front cylinders, conical parts that fit the inlets better on the lower outboard sides, lots more prepunched holes, and plans/pictures ala RV10 & 12.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook

Last edited by Brantel : 10-30-2008 at 02:35 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2008, 03:05 PM
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jthocker jthocker is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Default

Brian
On the 2 8's I just finished, the first one had an older Lyc. O-360 and the baffle at the back around the case had to be trimmed alot to fit.
On the 2nd the engine is a new ECI O-360 and it seemed like the baffle kit was designed around it. Not nearly as much trimming was required.
Both planes had the new baffle kit.

Good luck
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  #7  
Old 10-30-2008, 06:24 PM
flyvans.com flyvans.com is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
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Default

having just started on the baffling, can anyone chime in, wheter i should start working on something else and get the new kit instead?

is it that much easier to build?
less longterm issues to be expected?
if it saves me a week of work, i find it's an easy 250$ value...

thanks a lot for opinions!

bernie
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  #8  
Old 10-30-2008, 08:51 PM
mike109g6 mike109g6 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Shepherdsville, KY
Posts: 280
Default baffle kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
I agree it looks a ton better! I have been working with it but I have some fit issues around the back of the engine and I didn't know if it is me making a mistake or if these areas still need to be trimmed to fit.
Talked to Van's about the same issue. Was told that on new kit about 3 extra inches added that need to be trimmed off. My corners have the same problem - I keep trimming and trimming and they still need more trimming. In the middle I'm down to the case attach bracket and I could go down another 1/2" really - top of my cowl nose bowl is about 1/4" proud. I'm really putting the pneumatic shears and vixen files to work. Seems that the
'0' series baffle could have been a better fit to begin with. I'm going to have to cut the front(flywheel) baffle down about half it's original height. What a waste of metal. My 0-290D has a small footprint compared to a 0-320 which is the baffle that I had to use.
Mike H 9A/8A
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  #9  
Old 10-30-2008, 08:55 PM
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dhall_polo dhall_polo is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cumming, GA
Posts: 610
Default baffling pics

Brian,

I'm working on baffling now. Hopefully wrapping up most of it this weekend. I just put my pics on my gallery. I don't snap every step, but maybe these pics and comments are useful. I did find a healthy supply of baffling pics searching other threads on VAF.
http://donka.net/gallery/view_album...._engine&page=6

Even with the baffling kit being apparently much improved over what others have gnarled about, I bet I've still spent maybe 25-30 hours on it. Maybe I'm just revealing how slow I can be. All I know is that I'm happy to see how few plane parts are left on the shelf! One of these days...

Don
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  #10  
Old 10-30-2008, 10:20 PM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
Default

Brian,

Just finished putting the baffles on a 360 in my 9A. I found that all the parts can be gotten into place without trimming (you will need to trim eventually to fit the cowl etc.) but for some you need to get them in exactly the proper orientation or they tend to catch or bind on something.

FWIW, be careful of where you put the oil cooler. In trying to get the maximum cooling, I put mine too high the first time and ended up buying a new L rear baffle.

greg
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