Oil Door Installation

avi8tor50 · #1 10-29-2008, 10:17 AM

Hi all-

Getting ready to install the oil door. I would really like to use hidden hinges and the "push button" latch that some have used. I know about the McMaster Carr hinges and the Guden hinges (they have $25 minimum order plus shipping). Was wondering if those of you that have used the McMaster hinges had any difficulty getting them to work (I'm building a 9A).
Also, the recess that is molded into the cowl does NOT allow the door to fit flush with the cowl. What have others done to make this fit better?
Finally, where can you get the "push button" door latch?

Thanks all!
Peter K
9A

bullojm1 · #2 10-29-2008, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avi8tor50

Finally, where can you get the "push button" door latch?

The "push button" latch can be purchased from B&B Aircraft Supplies at 913-884-5930. The latch model # is KM610-64. When I bought mine a few months ago they were $5.00 each, and B&B had a $10 order minimum. Buy two and sell one of them to a friend. That's what I did.

avi8tor50 · #3 10-29-2008, 10:58 AM

Any problem installing the push button latch? any photos?
Thanks.

Peter K

bullojm1 · #4 10-29-2008, 11:09 AM

Peter-

I made a metal oil door and used a Sam James cowl, so I don't know how much of my documentation applies to you, but here it is:

http://rvplane.com/?categoryid=6&dayid=647

No problems installing the push-button latch. It works great!

RV8barry · #5 10-29-2008, 11:59 AM

I bought a McMaster Carr hinge but found it was very heavy. I try to make my own but finally bought the one from nonstopaviation.com. It has a spring in it which keeps the door open. cost is $39.95. They also carry the button. I bought my button from B&B for less.

Steve · #6 10-29-2008, 12:00 PM

My door fits in the cowl recess after I narrowed it along the 4 sides. The door gets progressively thicker toward the aft edge so the top aft surface sits above the surrounding cowl. Must've been laid up on a Monday. I did rivet a fluted length of angle on the underside near the forward edge to keep the door from flexing and opening in flight. An aluminum door is on the "winter project list".
I used the push button latch from the surplus store in Kansas. Another builder on this site has the address.
I used 2 Mcmaster-Carr hinges. The door opens slightly less than 90 degrees because the top edge of the door contacts the top cowl when its fully open. It's the price you pay to have hidden hinges.

Steve

Brantel · #7 10-29-2008, 12:14 PM

To solve the issue with the fact that they do not mold in square corners on the recess, I cut the door slightly smaller than the flat part of the recess.

I then installed the door, covered the edges with packing tape and closed the door and latched it. Once this was done I used SuperFill to fill the gap all around the door and feathered it out onto the cowl nicely.

Rough up the glass and ensure it is super clean before adding the filler.

After it cured, sand down with a block, feather it out, and take fine grit paper to the edges to round them over.

Turned out great.

PS. I can't afford a fancy hidden hinge and pushbutton latches (trying to save for avionics!) so I went with the plans, inexpensive, works great and really does not look that bad!

alpinelakespilot2000 · #8 10-29-2008, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullojm1

Peter-

I made a metal oil door and used a Sam James cowl, so I don't know how much of my documentation applies to you, but here it is:

http://rvplane.com/?categoryid=6&dayid=647

No problems installing the push-button latch. It works great!

Mike-Did you use an alumininum doubler on the inside of your cowling to serve as a "strike-plate" for the latch? (It looks like it.)

On my installation I found that the latch just barely has enough fiberglass to grip once I filed the opening large enough to allow the door to close. It takes quite a bit of force to open the door without pushing the button, but I'm wondering if my latch will get looser over time as the edge on the cowl opening gets worn. I don' want the door popping open in flight!

bullojm1 · #9 10-29-2008, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

Mike-Did you use an alumininum doubler on the inside of your cowling to serve as a "strike-plate" for the latch? (It looks like it.)

On my installation I found that the latch just barely has enough fiberglass to grip once I filed the opening large enough to allow the door to close. It takes quite a bit of force to open the door without pushing the button, but I'm wondering if my latch will get looser over time as the edge on the cowl opening gets worn. I don' want the door popping open in flight!

Yeah, I made a doubler out of some 032. I plan on putting a piece of tapered 063 behind the 032 where the latch comes in contact with the doubler to reinforce it even more.

kiwipete · #10 10-30-2008, 02:56 AM

I made my own hidden hinge out of 032. Took 1/2 an hour and works great. Not spring loaded but I saved time and shipping to the UK.
I then did exactly the same as Brantel and glassed up to the door edges.
I also got rid of the butterfly's on the standard catches. The only downside I need a screwdriver to open the door but it looks much better.

Peter