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10-23-2008, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Townsend, Montana
Posts: 3,179
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DR's GLO RV-7 pic
Doug, nice pic on the front page. Now could you take a few close-ups of the canopy? I would like to see what was done on the front edge(i.e. what's the black strip on the canopy skin?)
I'm not happy with the fit of my canopy and am interested in any and all fixes.
b
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Retired Dam guy. Life is good.
Brian, N155BKsold but bought back.
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10-23-2008, 08:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydroguy2
[IMG]
I'm not happy with the fit of my canopy and am interested in any and all fixes.
b
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That's an easy one... Build a Slider... 
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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10-23-2008, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Manistee, MI
Posts: 182
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Great looking 7
I must say that that is one great looking paint scheme and great color combo.
Hats off to the builder and painters!
Nice looking tailwheel too!
Doug
Who's 7 is this....anyone know?
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10-23-2008, 10:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,523
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The owner is Randy Utsey from Charlotte.. cant' wait to see it in person.. I believe he's bringing it back home next week..
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Radomir
RV-7A sold
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10-23-2008, 12:08 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, N.C.
Posts: 47
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Canopy seal
Thank's for the compliments! The black rubber is my second attempt to keep out the rain in wet IMC conditions. I originally used a seal that the canopy closed against but the rain came in at the hinge points. I think I will still get some water with this but hopefully not as much.
Randy Utsey
N55CU
Charlotte, N.C.
randy@djdist.com
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10-23-2008, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Randy,
One of the best things I have ever seen on a tip up is the use of some rip-stop nylon Velcroed in place to forum a rain gutter over the instruments and direct the rain to the sides.
I can't wait to see it in person!
For the rest, as Radomir said, it is a Charlotte based -7 and the builder, Randy Utsey, did a great job. It is equipped for hard IFR. Randy started flying after I did last year (8/5/07 for me) and has well surpassed over 200 hours on it. This plane will see some use!
And yes Doug Bell, that is one of your tail wheels.
Someone mentioned the yellow prop, well Randy painted a lot of the interior parts yellow as well. Things like the brake pedals, batter box, and a lot more. He really did do a nice job.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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10-23-2008, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N55CU
Thank's for the compliments! The black rubber is my second attempt to keep out the rain in wet IMC conditions. I originally used a seal that the canopy closed against but the rain came in at the hinge points. I think I will still get some water with this but hopefully not as much.
Randy Utsey
N55CU
Charlotte, N.C.
randy@djdist.com
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This has been a vexing problem for me. I ordered a custom 5/16 soft seal from Steele Rubber and sealed the riveted lip with silicon and it seems to have finally done the trick. I flew through light rain for about 20 min and not a drop of water. The only problem is the rubber seal is very soft but it pushes the "lip" of the canopy up about 1/64 in. in the front. It doesn't look as "finished" as I would like but my radios stay dry.
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10-24-2008, 04:04 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,627
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Hey Randy,
I just noticed your N-number. Looks like "CU" favors Caroline Utsey. Your wife must be very pleased.
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Ron Schreck
IAC National Judge
RV-8, "Miss Izzy", 2250 Hours - Sold
VAF 2021 Donor
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10-24-2008, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
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I've not built a tip-up 6-7-9, but reading this discussion made me curious about sealing the canopy skin gap. Seems like everybody is chasing the perfect rubber seal, but the automotive world generally avoids depending on rubber for water sealing in door openings, sunroofs, etc. Whenever possible, they use a channel to guide water where they want it; any adjacent rubber is for air sealing. Why not install a drain channel under the canopy gap, so that water is directed down to the longerons and overboard?
Two quick ideas, no dimensions, no details, just thought starters. The first is a glass/epoxy water channel across the gap between the bulkhead and the seal angle. The second is a formed metal strip; the channel is formed with one pass through a bead roller. It would shim the top forward skin up .016"; don't know if you can get away with it.

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Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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10-24-2008, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
I've not built a tip-up 6-7-9, but reading this discussion made me curious about sealing the canopy skin gap. Seems like everybody is chasing the perfect rubber seal, but the automotive world generally avoids depending on rubber for water sealing in door openings, sunroofs, etc. Whenever possible, they use a channel to guide water where they want it; any adjacent rubber is for air sealing. Why not install a drain channel under the canopy gap, so that water is directed down to the longerons and overboard?
Two quick ideas, no dimensions, no details, just thought starters. The first is a glass/epoxy water channel across the gap between the bulkhead and the seal angle. The second is a formed metal strip; the channel is formed with one pass through a bead roller. It would shim the top forward skin up .016"; don't know if you can get away with it.
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The concept of creating a channel might work fine sitting on the ground, but in the air, trucking along at xxx kts, the rain goes most places that the air goes.
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Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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