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  #1  
Old 10-23-2008, 08:09 AM
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hydroguy2 hydroguy2 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Townsend, Montana
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Default DR's GLO RV-7 pic



Doug, nice pic on the front page. Now could you take a few close-ups of the canopy? I would like to see what was done on the front edge(i.e. what's the black strip on the canopy skin?)

I'm not happy with the fit of my canopy and am interested in any and all fixes.

b
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2008, 08:50 AM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydroguy2 View Post
[IMG]

I'm not happy with the fit of my canopy and am interested in any and all fixes.

b

That's an easy one... Build a Slider...
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2008, 10:19 AM
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glfrdug glfrdug is offline
 
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Location: Manistee, MI
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Default Great looking 7

I must say that that is one great looking paint scheme and great color combo.
Hats off to the builder and painters!
Nice looking tailwheel too!
Doug

Who's 7 is this....anyone know?
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2008, 10:27 AM
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Radomir Radomir is offline
 
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The owner is Randy Utsey from Charlotte.. cant' wait to see it in person.. I believe he's bringing it back home next week..
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2008, 12:08 PM
N55CU N55CU is offline
 
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Location: Charlotte, N.C.
Posts: 47
Default Canopy seal

Thank's for the compliments! The black rubber is my second attempt to keep out the rain in wet IMC conditions. I originally used a seal that the canopy closed against but the rain came in at the hinge points. I think I will still get some water with this but hopefully not as much.
Randy Utsey
N55CU
Charlotte, N.C.
randy@djdist.com
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2008, 12:41 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Randy,

One of the best things I have ever seen on a tip up is the use of some rip-stop nylon Velcroed in place to forum a rain gutter over the instruments and direct the rain to the sides.

I can't wait to see it in person!

For the rest, as Radomir said, it is a Charlotte based -7 and the builder, Randy Utsey, did a great job. It is equipped for hard IFR. Randy started flying after I did last year (8/5/07 for me) and has well surpassed over 200 hours on it. This plane will see some use!

And yes Doug Bell, that is one of your tail wheels.

Someone mentioned the yellow prop, well Randy painted a lot of the interior parts yellow as well. Things like the brake pedals, batter box, and a lot more. He really did do a nice job.
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  #7  
Old 10-23-2008, 07:37 PM
drew4161 drew4161 is offline
 
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Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N55CU View Post
Thank's for the compliments! The black rubber is my second attempt to keep out the rain in wet IMC conditions. I originally used a seal that the canopy closed against but the rain came in at the hinge points. I think I will still get some water with this but hopefully not as much.
Randy Utsey
N55CU
Charlotte, N.C.
randy@djdist.com
This has been a vexing problem for me. I ordered a custom 5/16 soft seal from Steele Rubber and sealed the riveted lip with silicon and it seems to have finally done the trick. I flew through light rain for about 20 min and not a drop of water. The only problem is the rubber seal is very soft but it pushes the "lip" of the canopy up about 1/64 in. in the front. It doesn't look as "finished" as I would like but my radios stay dry.
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2008, 04:04 AM
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ronschreck ronschreck is offline
 
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Hey Randy,

I just noticed your N-number. Looks like "CU" favors Caroline Utsey. Your wife must be very pleased.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2008, 08:01 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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I've not built a tip-up 6-7-9, but reading this discussion made me curious about sealing the canopy skin gap. Seems like everybody is chasing the perfect rubber seal, but the automotive world generally avoids depending on rubber for water sealing in door openings, sunroofs, etc. Whenever possible, they use a channel to guide water where they want it; any adjacent rubber is for air sealing. Why not install a drain channel under the canopy gap, so that water is directed down to the longerons and overboard?

Two quick ideas, no dimensions, no details, just thought starters. The first is a glass/epoxy water channel across the gap between the bulkhead and the seal angle. The second is a formed metal strip; the channel is formed with one pass through a bead roller. It would shim the top forward skin up .016"; don't know if you can get away with it.

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  #10  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:09 AM
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Location: Cedar Park, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
I've not built a tip-up 6-7-9, but reading this discussion made me curious about sealing the canopy skin gap. Seems like everybody is chasing the perfect rubber seal, but the automotive world generally avoids depending on rubber for water sealing in door openings, sunroofs, etc. Whenever possible, they use a channel to guide water where they want it; any adjacent rubber is for air sealing. Why not install a drain channel under the canopy gap, so that water is directed down to the longerons and overboard?

Two quick ideas, no dimensions, no details, just thought starters. The first is a glass/epoxy water channel across the gap between the bulkhead and the seal angle. The second is a formed metal strip; the channel is formed with one pass through a bead roller. It would shim the top forward skin up .016"; don't know if you can get away with it.
The concept of creating a channel might work fine sitting on the ground, but in the air, trucking along at xxx kts, the rain goes most places that the air goes.
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