How close is close enough?

[danielhv]

Im plumbing the wing... got the top skins clecoed on, and im plumbing it up to matchdrill.... I have a plumb hung on each end of the spar on the bottom side. I have 11/32" from the rear spar to the string on the outboard end, and 13/32" from the rear spar to the string on the inboard end. Is 2/32" acceptable? I have not done anything as far as correcting for twist. These are the numbers "out of the box" so to speak...

[Transporter]

If your wing fixture arms are adjustable a couple of turns on the adjustable arm at one end will zero this out.

Means the difference between zero twist in the wing (the design) and 1/16" twist (what you have now).

Is it a big deal? Maybe not, but at 200 mph any twist is going to result in the airflow acting on the wing in a way that Van didn't intend.

Mike

[danielhv]

Originally Posted by Transporter

If your wing fixture arms are adjustable a couple of turns on the adjustable arm at one end will zero this out.

Means the difference between zero twist in the wing (the design) and 1/16" twist (what you have now).

Is it a big deal? Maybe not, but at 200 mph any twist is going to result in the airflow acting on the wing in a way that Van didn't intend.

Mike

will do... it IS adjustable... I just didn't know how carried away I needed to get!

[AF_Alan]

Don't know about the -7 but in the instructions for the -9, it states that 3/32" difference between the ends is acceptable. It is stated to measure it after you cleco the tank on (before drilling, etc.). Sounds like you are good out of the box.

Alan
RV-9A Wings
N984AW Reserved

[Hawkeye7A]

Don't forget that the fuel tank skins and the outboard skins are of different thickness. Mine were within 1/32" so I figured "perfect enough". She flies great with no "heavy wing" or any other anomalies. Don't remember who said it, (maybe Jay Pratt; "We're building an airplane, not a watch"!)