Removing Studs

Pmerems · #1 10-18-2008, 01:34 PM

Gents,

I need your assistance. I installed the four studs on on the governor adapter without any issue (used some grease) using the double nut technique.

I had planned to use the VA-153 bracket (mounts to the back of the governor) on my PCU-5000X governor but the VA-153 doesn't work well with the PCU. Van doesn't sell the VA-183 any longer so I made my own version. The VA-183 mounts to the governor mounting flange and uses two of the studs.

Now I need to back out two of the studs to accommodate the VA-183 and the extra washer needed between the bracket and the governor mounting flange.

I tried the double nut trick but the nuts turned on the stud and the stud didn't rotate.

Any thoughts on how to back these studs out?

Hope I don't need to use a vice grip and replace the studs.

Thanks,

jetjok · #2 10-18-2008, 02:52 PM

This is the tool that you need.I am sure that you can find one from another company. This is something that you only use very infrequently, it is definitely the right tool for the right job!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

Good luck

Mel · #3 10-18-2008, 07:44 PM

I've always been able to remove studs with the "double-nut" method. Sometimes it takes several tries, but always successful. First you must tighten the nuts VERY tight against one another and use the inner nut to unscrew with.
Just a few weeks ago I changed the magneto studs to install an impulse mag on the right side. These studs had been there since 1972.

Rick S. · #4 10-18-2008, 07:52 PM

Mel's got the right technique, you may want to try a little heat to the stud as well, heat it up but don't get it too hot. The heat will help release any stud locker or locktite that was used.

Pmerems · #5 10-20-2008, 11:03 PM

Gents,

I tried double nutting again and it doesn't work. These studs are in very tight. I will have to try an remover. Unfortunately I fear I will damage the studs and have to replace them. I will call Superior and see what they suggest and the cost of 2 new studs.

bullojm1 · #6 10-21-2008, 08:14 AM

Hey Paul-

I was in your same predicament last night. I needed to drive the four studs that hold in the fuel controller on the bottom of the sump in a little bit. No matter how tight I doubled the nuts up, those studs didn't budge. I am going to give Superior a call up as well and get some new studs.

Walt · #7 10-21-2008, 08:29 AM

When I replaced the carb with the AFP servo I had to remove the studs in the sump, lots of heat from a butane torch and a pipe wrench did the trick! No amount of double or triple nutting would budge them.

Dan Langhout · #8 10-28-2008, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pmerems

Gents,

<snip>
I had planned to use the VA-153 bracket (mounts to the back of the governor) on my PCU-5000X governor but the VA-153 doesn't work well with the PCU. Van doesn't sell the VA-183 any longer so I made my own version.
</snip>

Hi Paul,
Any chance you might share drawings/photos of your bracket? I'm going with a PCU5000X and will undoubtedly run into the same problem as you did. Perhaps this could be an additional product from ExperimentalAero?

BTW, I LOVE my DRDT-2.

OKAV8r · #9 10-28-2008, 12:27 PM

Mel has it right... (as always) If it were me, and there are enough threads, I would do two sets of double nuts... twice the torque, and you can have two wrenches in opposing positions, i.e. one at 9 oclock and one at 3 oclock

Mike S · #10 10-28-2008, 01:23 PM

As Mel said, twist the inner nut if taking off, (outer nut if tightening).

I have found a star lock washer between the nuts to help with really tight studs.

One other trick, put a box end wrench on the stud first, sometimes you cant get it on with the double nut flats off set.

First tug on wrench should be a hard fast one, sometimes even use a hammer and strike the wrench. Kinda like using an impact wrench on a tight lug nut.

Good luck.