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  #31  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:20 PM
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cytoxin cytoxin is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielhv View Post
I see, I'll give that a try too, its just hard enough trying to clamp that little piece down as it is and still leave room for the cutter! (2" x 1.25" tiedown spacer and cutting a 1" hole)
1. your saving .2 grams

2. i would cut the hole before i cut the stock down.. makes it easier to handle. or use a drill press vise.
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  #32  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:21 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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You can mount the 2x4 to the table from underneath with a few wood screws, then clamp to it.

Just keep all the parts firmly positioned.

The fly cutter exerts an asymmetrical force as it is spinning, and that is where the problem lies.

A drill bit has two cutting edges, which balance the force of each other.
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  #33  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:24 PM
Steve Steve is offline
 
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Default bit orientation

If you want straight sided holes, the point of the tool must be to the outside. If you want cylinders with straight sides, set the tool with the point toward center.
I would use something other than a flycutter to cut lightning holes in the VS spar. Sears type fly cutters are best used for thin sheet stock.

Steve
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  #34  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:41 PM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Take another look at this photo from post 5. Thanks Brian.


The entire stackup is clamped to the drill press table.

If you are only clamping to a piece of 2x4 as stated above, then things can still move around, and that aint good
If you can clamp the work to the table with the work up against the drill press' vertical column, that will help your physical well-being when the cutter stalls in the work!
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  #35  
Old 09-18-2008, 01:07 PM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
If you want straight sided holes, the point of the tool must be to the outside. If you want cylinders with straight sides, set the tool with the point toward center.
I would use something other than a flycutter to cut lightning holes in the VS spar. Sears type fly cutters are best used for thin sheet stock.

Steve
I spotted this little gadget at Chip Ganassi's racing shop. I think it punches holes from 1/8 inch to around two and a quarter inches, but it might be a bit more expensive than a fly cutter!

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  #36  
Old 09-18-2008, 01:41 PM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
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Default Cut my hole pannel out with one.

I had excellent luck with the same from ACS.

Slow speed, a little oil, wood board underneath, bit oriented properly and make sure it is sharp.

If you sharpen, don't burn the bit. I did sharpen periodically.

You might be putting too much force and not letting the bit cut at its own pace.
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  #37  
Old 09-18-2008, 01:54 PM
JHines JHines is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainron View Post
I spotted this little gadget at Chip Ganassi's racing shop. I think it punches holes from 1/8 inch to around two and a quarter inches, but it might be a bit more expensive than a fly cutter!

prices starting at $11,788 !!!!!
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  #38  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:16 PM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
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GROUP BUY!!!!!
Oops, shipping it around might be a problem......
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  #39  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:29 PM
TJoyner TJoyner is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielhv View Post
I see, I'll give that a try too, its just hard enough trying to clamp that little piece down as it is and still leave room for the cutter! (2" x 1.25" tiedown spacer and cutting a 1" hole)
I don't know if it makes any difference but I used a unibit and just drilled a 3/4" hole there.

.
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  #40  
Old 09-18-2008, 03:38 PM
Transporter Transporter is offline
 
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Location: Lee's Summit, MO
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Default 1" Bi-metal Hole Saw

I used a 1" hole saw with some cutting fluid...fewer problems with rpm. Clamped the long piece of stock in the vice and used the drill press.

I use the fly cutter on sheetmetal (like tank end ribs) with no problem.

For hole saw, see:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100495351

Good luck,
Mike
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