|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

09-26-2005, 03:47 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,166
|
|
How much epoxy should I get?
I've seen everyone's recommendations on the West System epoxy. Do I need a gallon of the resin and quart of hardener? Or are the smaller sizes enough? I'm just planning on doing the usual canopy fairing, empennage tip fitting, fixing the horz induction snorkel, etc.
Also, I'll probably be using it mostly this winter when the garage is 60ish degrees. So I'm guessing the faster hardener is the best choice. The slow hardener calls for 60 degrees minimum.
Thanks,
Dave
|

09-26-2005, 04:34 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,173
|
|
Epoxy
I got a gallon/quart of the west systems epoxy, and I think it will be enough. I'm not yet finished, but I think I've only used about 25% of each, judging from the feel of the cans. I'll bet you could get by with less. You might want to start with a 1.2 quart kit, and see how fast it goes. Since you are in the US the hazmat charges won't be a big deal. For me they were huge, so I didn't want to pay multiple times.
|

09-26-2005, 04:46 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,166
|
|
There's a West Marine about 1/2 mile from where I work, so it's really easy to avoid haz/mat charges. 
|

09-26-2005, 05:57 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 374
|
|
Get the Gallon
Dave,
I would definitely go with the gallon size. I'm just finishing the emp tips, and I can already tell the gallon will be needed. I went with Jim's recommendation for supplies, and it seems spot on.
http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html
Scott
|

09-26-2005, 09:58 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,901
|
|
Epoxy needed
Holy Sh*t guys, what are you doing with the epoxy? I did the empennage glass on two RV's including filling in the channels of the elevator, stabilizer, rudder and vertical fin and lower glass. Also custom fit the prototype RV7 fairing from Bobs Fairings, the lower cowl glass snoot for the airbox, built a glass plenum for the oil cooler and various other miscellaneous stuff and used just over a quart. Actually, probably didn't even use a quart because I used quite a bit on two Giant Scale RC aerobatic planes. If nearly a gallon is being used considerable unneccesary weight is being added.
I'll write up my process and post on building tips section of the list. Everybody makes a big deal of glass but with some guidance it is very easy to get excellent results without gaining any significant weight.
Darwin N. Barrie
P19
|

09-27-2005, 05:01 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,173
|
|
Guidance
Quote:
|
I'll write up my process and post on building tips section of the list. Everybody makes a big deal of glass but with some guidance it is very easy to get excellent results without gaining any significant weight.
|
That would be great. I know what I'm doing with all the epoxy - I'm sanding it off!
I've got a couple of videos, which helped some, and I went to some of the workshops at SNF and OSH, but I'd really love to get some more training and tips and tricks on how to work with this stuff. I really can't believe that people who build plastic airplanes ever get finished. They must be doing something different.
I find that I put too much on, then spend days sanding it all off. It ain't fun, and now I believe I have "fiberglass elbow" from all the sanding! Not to mention having to wear a respirator for hours at a time.
|

09-27-2005, 05:48 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
|
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Davepar
I've seen everyone's recommendations on the West System epoxy. Do I need a gallon of the resin and quart of hardener? Or are the smaller sizes enough? I'm just planning on doing the usual canopy fairing, empennage tip fitting, fixing the horz induction snorkel, etc.
Also, I'll probably be using it mostly this winter when the garage is 60ish degrees. So I'm guessing the faster hardener is the best choice. The slow hardener calls for 60 degrees minimum.
Thanks,
Dave
|
We happen to have a West Marine nearby and I purchase both the resin and hardener by the quart as required. West also carries and I highly recommend the use of their calibrated pumps which replace the screw tops on the cans and with one squirt of each, makes mixing the epoxy in the proper proportions just too easy. Using the pumps, you will find the resin supply exhausts much faster than the hardener. For that reason, I would suggest you initially purchase 2 quart cans of 105 resin and one quart can of the 206 hardener. This is enough epoxy to last you quite awhile. Even though the 206 is labeled "slow", you will find it sets up just fine in 24 hours even at 60 degrees.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Last edited by Rick6a : 09-27-2005 at 06:17 AM.
|

09-27-2005, 10:55 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: EDVK
Posts: 323
|
|
epoxy
I have been using the slow hardener. When the weather isn't quite warm enough, gentle application of heat from a heat gun(don't melt the fiberglass) will accelerate the cure.
__________________
[color=SlateGray]Mark Andrews
RV8A N598X
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:28 PM.
|