"filler primer" for fiberglass

[prkaye]

A professional aircraft painter has recommended I use a "filler primer" for my fiberglass parts (he advised against self-etching primers for fiberglass). He recommended a product called "slick sand".
Can anybody recommend a similar filler primer that is available in rattle-cans?

[KTM520guy]

A filler primer from a rattle can (or "spray bomb" as we say down in these parts) won't fill all that much. Think of the tiny little hole it is sprayed out of. A cheap spray gun good enough for primer can be had for less than $20.

[fstringham7a]

Originally Posted by prkaye

A professional aircraft painter has recommended I use a "filler primer" for my fiberglass parts (he advised against self-etching primers for fiberglass). He recommended a product called "slick sand".
Can anybody recommend a similar filler primer that is available in rattle-cans?

Phil

If you have followed my thread..... http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=33556 ......

you can follow my search for the magic FG primer/filler......

You will note I am using the Stewart System Water Bourne primer/paint system. There are a number of products and suggestions of process in this thread and others you can find on the forum search.

In short there is no....to my present knowledge....easy/single apllication/no fuss no muss FG preparation for paint product.

It boils down to......use what ever filler you choose and plan on alot of cleaning/sanding/filler application/cleaning/sanding/filler application/sanding.............and so it goes.

I have used resin/hardner with aceton......Red Glaze Putty.....Evercoat Rage Gold......Evercoat Metal Glaze......and Icing by USC has been recomended (but I have not used the Icing yet) in combination with UV Ekofill primer filler and Eckofill (white) primer filler or the primer system of your choice.

Between the cowl/fairing/pants/emp tip/ I have not done the wing tips yet...I have about five plus weeks in FG prep. Not to mention all the time to fabricate custom ram air induction nostril/pant fairing/Canopy fairing. From my veiw point there just is no getting away from alot of dusty/hard/time consuming work to get a quilty FG product. I still have to paint the parts. I guess this is where we shall see if all the work has paid off.......and the hope is my painting skill will rise to the occasion.

Frank @ 1L8 .... RV7A .... paintng

[N395V]

I prep with soap and water followed by PPG Acryli clean solvent. Then 1 coat of PPG K36 primer hand brushed rather than brushing like in house painting I scrub the primer into the surface like scrubbing the floor. Sand with 80 grit till I see the fiberglass, repeat the cleaning process above then I apply 1 more coat, clean and sand. Clean again and apply 1 coat of PPG K38 High Build primer with a roller.

Sand with 220 grit followed by 400 grit dry then 400 wet. Requires a bit more primer than spray and a bit more sanding to get down to the same weight as if you sprayed but overall I find I am done with less overall work and less having to go back and fill sand etc.

Some sand the first coat with 120 then 400 grit and omit the cleaning process between coats just wiping the surface with a dry towel leaving a fine layer of sanding residue as filler and apply the second coat over it. It seems to work but just doesn't feel right to me.

On smaller contour parts I just use the K36 and a brush, it usually takes 3-4 applications.

[vlittle]

Originally Posted by N395V

What the heck is this a picture of? Certainly not an RV wing....

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by vlittle

What the heck is this a picture of? Certainly not an RV wing....

Vern, take a look here.

[N395V]

What the heck is this a picture of? Certainly not an RV wing....

No but it is fiberglass which is the subject of the original post. If you are offended by it not being an RV wing I will be happy to remove it.

[Steve]

My local auto paint supply house sells a line of product in spray cans. I think it's named Hy-Pol. The blue can is the hi-build grey primer you're looking for. About $16.00 per 15oz can.
I've used that and grey Dupont putty (no longer avail in CA) for pinholes.
Steve

[dhammer]

Going back to my glider damage experience - After sanding the repair to shape I brushed on a heavy coat of gelcoat. After that cured I sanded it flush then sprayed on a few thin coats that got wet sanded then buffed. Never even saw a pin hole. I guess I didn't know what I was missing.

Love that fiberglass stuff. Easy to repair and you can create compound curves in anything. Not many people can do that with an English wheel, anealing torch, and sandbag, with aluminum. I can, or at least could, but what would take me a week in metal I can create out of glass in a heartbeat.

It would be cool though to have an ALL aluminum RV just polished, but at my age I'd never get there.

And, oh by the way, you can paint ureathane over gelcoat. Glasair parts come that way and no pinholes. Female molds get the gel then glass layers. Just like fiberglas bath tubs.

Don

[Scott Hersha]

If you just want to fill pin holes in an easy way, check out this site: www.loehle.com . Loehle aircraft sells their own line of finishes and it sounds like an easy way to go. Fill pinholes with 'Wonderfil' then spray on a coat of sanding primer and you're done. With wonder-fil, you just wipe it on with a cloth (it's a paste), wait 5 minutes and then wipe it off...... pinholes filled. I don't think it will fill in any 'un-eveness', but if it's already smooth, just fill the pinholes and prime. I would (will) use a UV-blocking sanding primer, like Loehle's product or UV-smooth prime, but it sure sounds easier than multiple coats of a filler sprayed on and sanded - not really meant to be strictly a pinhole filler. If you have something bigger in mind, follow Milt's advice. He's got to be an expert by now.

Scott
RV-8 Fastback - almost done.