When I did my tipup, the first thing I did was to make sure the canopy edge fit perfectly on the glareshield skin. I secured the canopy in place using the mounting screws along the sides. Then I used just enough super fil to form a fillet from the canopy edge to the skin. I used two layers of 9 oz glass tape to fair in the canopy, the first was slightly narrower than the second. Then I pop riveted about every three to five inches through the fiberglass tape to the skin as close as possible to the canopy edge. Use small (3/32) AL countersunk pop rivets and countersink the fiberglass so you can easily bury the rivets. Then the rivets were buried in superfil and a final layer of glass tape was applied, overlapping the first two. Additional fillers and glazes filled in the weave for painting.
I kept the faired area narrow and it was easy to cover the area in the inside with a removable glare shield held in place, to the skin, with velcro.
This area is flexible, even with the canopy stiffener kit. It is my theory that too thick of a fiberglass fair in this area will eventually crack because it can't flex with the frame and canopy. Thinner will flex and last longer. Mine was fine after almost 5 years and as far as I know, it still is.
YMMV,
Roberta
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Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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