Glueing Rolled Leading Edge with Rivets

sglynn · #1 08-08-2008, 11:06 AM

What do you think about glueing the little ripples or puckers on the rolled leading edge. The rolled leading edges on my 7a elevators came out with small separations in-between rivets of the rolled leading edges. It's probably fine, but couldn't I put a little glue in there? I considered extra revits to close the gap but I don't want to add weight and make more holes? What glue would work? Epoxy? Fuel Tank Sealer? Super Glue? Or some exotic aluminum glue? And if I do glue, will primer on one surface screw up the glue from sticking? thanks for your insights and knowledge on this.

Brantel · #2 08-08-2008, 11:09 AM

Unless this is really bad, don't mess with it. Once you get to putting the elevators on the HS stab, if you have any interferance issues with that area and the spar doublers, then mess with it.

Most likely yours are just like a few thousand others. You can't see this area unless your trying to after it is installed so don't over do it.

rv72004 · #3 08-08-2008, 01:09 PM

You could drill out the rivets and roll the skins more so there is less tension.

Captain Sacto · #4 08-08-2008, 01:40 PM

SGLYNN asks...What do you think about glueing the little ripples or puckers on the rolled leading edge.

Actually, I'm just about to roll the leading edge halves for my rudder; and, I'm thinking about putting a thin layer of tank sealer on each mating surface.

My reason? I'm not an engineer, but it looks to me as though the rolled leading edge uses pop rivets to prevent the rudder spar from torsioning. So, if I strengthened this a bit with some adhesive between the pop rivets, the rudder would be stronger and stiffer. (Opinions invited on this.)

But to Sglynn's question, I don't know about the adhesion of glue joints if the skins are already mated. And, pop rivets are fabled to be difficult to drill-out.

I suspect that one could add additional pop rivets between the existing ones (without violating the minimum distance between holes guidance) but do your own measuring and math before drilling; and, be aware that there might be other persuasive reasons not to do this.

Good luck.

Brantel · #5 08-08-2008, 01:46 PM

Just my opinion but you guys are way overthinking this. If you do this throughout the project, your plane will weigh a million pounds and be totally different from the original design which is well proven.

Mel · #6 08-08-2008, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brantel

Just my opinion but you guys are way overthinking this. If you do this throughout the project, your plane will weigh a million pounds and be totally different from the original design which is well proven.

I'm afraid Brian is right. This is how heavy airplanes start. You would be surprised how much these ounces add up.
Aluminum pop rivets would be lighter than pro-seal. And pro-seal would be the only adhesive I would use. Any other adhesive would be too brittle and would crack out. Bottom line, you don't need to do anything. Once the controls are on, no one will ever see it.

RV7Factory · #7 08-08-2008, 02:49 PM

Use an edge former on the overlapping edge before you rivet and you won't get any pucker.

alpinelakespilot2000 · #8 08-08-2008, 07:18 PM

Wait until you finish your plane and then come back to it. You may be surprised that you even ever cared about it. Good luck as you move on.

kiwipete · #9 08-09-2008, 01:58 AM

I agree with Brian. You can't see it once installed and will make absolutely no difference.

Peter

cytoxin · #10 08-09-2008, 05:20 AM

i had one like that, it was edged rolled also, and as others have said its probally best to leave it alone, . at the dimensions set by vans the one would hit the hs bars near the center. i drilled out the rivets and re rolled it. total non event. i still cant remember why i had such a hard time rolling it in the first place. the trick for me was to use verrrrry light pressure while drilling out the rivets. if they spin, your in for a stressful ride.