What kind of blind rivets can I use here?

danielhv · #1 07-28-2008, 08:33 PM

I made a ribblet for the elevator where the trim tab goes... its made out of .025 (I think, still trying to learn to identify different thicknesses! but its the thinnest scrap sheet vans sent with the emp kit, just under the .032) I have drilled 3 holes on each side, with a 1/4" distance from the center of the holes to the edge of the skin... I know its probably a bit close, but I figured it would be ok since they are just to hold the little ribblet in place! I have dimpled the skin and ribblet, so I'd like to use a flush blind rivet of some kind... any suggestions? And while I'm at it, is there a data sheet or something that I can look stuff like this up on my own?

Greg Arehart · #2 07-28-2008, 10:50 PM

I would think you could use the CS4-4 rivets, but they would require a 1/8" hole and have a larger head than solid rivets. They are used in many other similar applications on the plane and you probably have more than a few extra. Probably most any countersunk pulled rivet should work, as this is not a high-stress location.

greg

cnpeters · #3 07-28-2008, 10:51 PM

MK-319-BS pop rivets are flush and handy for this sort of thing. I used them near trailing edges, a couple on the fuse, etc for those real hard to reach spots.

lorne green · #4 07-29-2008, 12:48 AM

I would use the MK-319-BS rivets that vans specs for some control surface skins. Vans supplies just enough of these so, order a couple dozen of these from ACS, Vans or your favorite vendor with your next order. Dimple the skin and ribblet. these should set nice and flush. As I zoomed my Mac in on your pic I noticed that you haven't riveted the elevator yet...good, open up the interior to set your dimples. It'll be a little tight on the trailing edge if your don't.

Mike S · #5 07-29-2008, 10:37 AM

Take a look at GAHCO , the owner is a RVer, and forum user.

On the left side, there is a list-----click "Rivets", under that click "blind", and under that is "techinfo". Here you can check size etc for your needs.

Good luck.

jmartinez443 · #6 07-29-2008, 11:04 AM

That rib came out nice. Good Job. I know this is kind of late but if you had turned the rib around you could have used solid rivets. In any case, use the MK rivets everyone is suggesting. Be aware that the MK rivets require that you make the holes 7/64" (slightly larger than a #40).

Again great job.

danielhv · #7 07-29-2008, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmartinez443

That rib came out nice. Good Job. I know this is kind of late but if you had turned the rib around you could have used solid rivets. In any case, use the MK rivets everyone is suggesting. Be aware that the MK rivets require that you make the holes 7/64" (slightly larger than a #40).

Again great job.

Yea I know, I debated on which side to put it on... but really liked the way the smooth side looked... Another thing I'm debating is on the trim tab, Im thinking about installing the ribs the same way, and glassing over the ends to make it look like one solid piece... has this been done before?

Also, should I put anything where the rib meets the edge of the skin to "seal" the skin to the rib? Proseal? Silicone? Fiberglass that too??

jmartinez443 · #8 07-29-2008, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielhv

Yea I know, I debated on which side to put it on... but really liked the way the smooth side looked... Another thing I'm debating is on the trim tab, Im thinking about installing the ribs the same way, and glassing over the ends to make it look like one solid piece... has this been done before?

Also, should I put anything where the rib meets the edge of the skin to "seal" the skin to the rib? Proseal? Silicone? Fiberglass that too??

Personally I wouldn't worry about glassing. I looked at the other elevator for guidance in the "look and feel" department. You'll notice that the inboard rib is recessed and fastened with solid rivets. So is the rib just forward of your trim tab. So doing the tab in the same manner would maintain the same look and feel.

But to answer your question, there was a Rocket guy in my old EAA chapter that was planning on doing just what you suggest as a speed mod (he had read that in the book "Speed with Economy"). He had the recessed ribs which he was going to foam over and then glass.

Personally I think that would be a moisture magnet and would lead to early corrosion. I think I'll leave mine alone. I don't plan to be looking at my tail that often anyway

. I'll leave the beauty treatments for when I build my award winner

. Right now I'll be happy to just get in the air.

jsharkey · #9 07-30-2008, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielhv

Yea I know, I debated on which side to put it on... but really liked the way the smooth side looked... Another thing I'm debating is on the trim tab, Im thinking about installing the ribs the same way, and glassing over the ends to make it look like one solid piece... has this been done before?

Also, should I put anything where the rib meets the edge of the skin to "seal" the skin to the rib? Proseal? Silicone? Fiberglass that too??

Just my 2 cents Dan but metal airplanes are supposed to look like metal airplanes. They should show neat, even, tidy and tight fasteners and metal joints. Coveing these with filler, sealer or fiberglass adds weight and it will end up cracking and looking ugly after a while. It also looks as if you are trying to hide something.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Finishing Up
PS - I work in the composites industry