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07-22-2008, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 801
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A Really Dumb Rivet Question
I have started construction of an RV8 empennage kit. I have a dumb question regarding orientation of the rivets on the horizontal and vertical stab spars. Which way do the shop heads go, forward, aft, or does it matter? I've looked everywhere and cannot find reference to this. Thanks
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07-22-2008, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,295
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No Dumb Question
There's no such thing as dumb question, only dumb building by continuing on without knowing what to do.
This has been discussed quite a bit on here but it's probably one of those things that's hard to find with the search engine.
The general rule of thumb is to orient the rivets so the shop head is on the thicker material. If you put the shop head on the thinner material it may distort the material which is why you put it on the thicker side.
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"What kind of man would live where there is no daring? I don't believe in taking foolish chances but nothing can be accomplished without taking any chance at all." - Charles A. Lindbergh
Jamie | RV-7A First Flight: 7/27/2007 (Sold)
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07-22-2008, 09:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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I agree with Jamie's comments, however, also understand that it isn't a hard and fast rule. If you're able to set a much better rivet in one direction or the other, do whatever works best for the given situation. If you end up folding the rivet over just to get it oriented on the "right" side...
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Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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07-22-2008, 09:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
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agreed with both of the above comments... Sometimes, when I'm confused as to what side to put the shop head on with two peices of equal thickness, I just look at Brad's site and copy what he did!  He's building a -7, but still a great site. ( http://www.rv7factory.com)
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07-23-2008, 12:55 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,256
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One more thing to consider...repairs. Not that I *ever* want to drill out a mess o' rivets to replace a part or effect a repair, when faced with a choice (like thicknesses of metal, etc.), we try to opt for having the factory head on the most accessible side, figuring if there is *ever* a need for repair, it'll be way easier to drill out the rivet.
Of course, this is probably waaaay overkill and thinking too much about it...
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Steve "Flying Scotsman"
Santa Clarita, CA
PP-ASEL, ASES, Instrument Airplane
RV-7A N660WS flying!
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07-23-2008, 03:34 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Europe, Finland (EFTU)
Posts: 542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie
The general rule of thumb is to orient the rivets so the shop head is on the thicker material. If you put the shop head on the thinner material it may distort the material which is why you put it on the thicker side.
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Van's has not specified direction in any way so don't see why not follow this. It will be strong enough build either way.
http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
MILITARY SPECIFICATION (MIL-R-47196A) - RIVETS, BUCK TYPE, PREPARATION FOR AND INSTALLATION OF
"3.3 Installation.
3.3.3.1 Head direction. Unless specified on the engineering drawing or specification, the manufactured head of the rivet shall be located on exterior surfaces."
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Pirkka
- RV-7 -
Tail: Waiting for fiberglass.
Wings: Some priming left, then lot of riveting.
QB Fuse + Finishing kit: in crates.
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07-23-2008, 05:54 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 801
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Great comments and suggestions. Thanks everyone.
Jim Shannon
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07-23-2008, 09:19 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Savage, Minnesota
Posts: 54
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Rivets on HS rear spar
FWIW, I thought about rivet replacement at some point in the future and that it is recomended that factory heads go forward. However, when actual rivet setting time presented itself, I did shop heads aft because - It was much easier to set with a squeezer and a better job done. The sqweezer yoke was a little too deep to clear the spar flange. So there you are! Ya I did figure out that I could have reversed the sets but it's done.
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07-23-2008, 09:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Savage, Minnesota
Posts: 54
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Rivets on HS rear spar
FWIW, I thought about rivet replacement at some point in the future and that it is recomended that factory heads go forward. However, when actual rivet setting time presented itself, I did shop heads aft because - It was much easier to set with a squeezer and a better job done. The squeezer yoke was a little too deep to clear the spar flange. So there you are! Ya I did figure out that I could have reversed the sets but it's done.
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07-23-2008, 11:20 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Winter Springs, FL
Posts: 249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flickroll
I have started construction of an RV8 empennage kit. I have a dumb question regarding orientation of the rivets on the horizontal and vertical stab spars. Which way do the shop heads go, forward, aft, or does it matter? I've looked everywhere and cannot find reference to this. Thanks
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I did it both ways (built two HS's - don't ask). I did my second HS with the manufactured heads facing out because on the first one the shop heads kept interfering with squeezing the skin rivets. My pneumatic squeezer actually nibbled the shop heads on a couple of them. Besides, I think it looks much better with the man'ned heads facing out. Feel free to follow my follies here: http://www.rv8alog.com/empennage/empennage.htm
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Jorge Martinez
QB 8A Fuse. Just battled the ^%&@ing gear weldments. Now I can move on.
http://www.rv8alog.com
Last edited by jmartinez443 : 07-23-2008 at 11:25 AM.
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