Ceramic coating?

N941WR · #1 09-13-2005, 10:49 AM

The FWF kit for my -9 arrived on Friday and I was wondering if it is worth having the exhaust system ceramic coated.

What do you think?

rv8ch · #2 09-13-2005, 11:34 AM

I don't have any personal experience with ceramic coating, but I'm going to get my exhaust coated. I spoke to a lot of the exhaust guys at OSH and they all said it's a good idea. Some even said that they used to not recommend it, but now they say they've been converted. They all said to make sure you get the coating that goes *inside* and outside. Don't just do the outside. Also, make sure you get the 2000?F coating, not the 1200?F version.

Air UPSer · #3 09-13-2005, 01:12 PM

I bought a set of Bassani pipes for my Harley several years back and talked the manufacturer into pulling them off the production line prior to chroming.

I had them dropped shipped to Jet-Hot and was very happy with the final product.

Brad

gmcjetpilot · #4 09-13-2005, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N941WR

The FWF kit for my -9 arrived on Friday and I was wondering if it is worth having the exhaust system ceramic coated.

What do you think?

Where ya going to get your cabin heat from? G

(And dont tell me your water heater core, Mickey

)

cobra · #5 09-13-2005, 02:57 PM

From the water heater core

sf3543 · #6 09-13-2005, 03:49 PM

When having the pipes coated, you need to supply the heat muff and all clamps that you will have on the exhaust pipes to the person doing the coating so they can be coated, too.
The portion of the pipes where the heatmuff will be installed should not be coated if you want heat.
I talked to Cradin Industries (830 249-9580) about this and I intend to take mine there.
By the way, there is more than one type of coating. One to hold heat in & one to keep heat out. (Per Cradin) And, they come in chrome or black and maybe other colors as well. Their product is weldable. Go look at their site and you will see that they have quite a background in this stuff.
It's possible that ceramic coating can provide added HP, to some degree, but my main goal is to keep the interior of the cowling cooler. A friend of mine has this on his RV 4 and he is happy with it keeping cowling temps down; however, any boost in power is yet to be determined.

gmcjetpilot · #7 09-13-2005, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sf3543

When having the pipes coated, you need to supply the heat muff and all clamps that you will have on the exhaust pipes to the person doing the coating so they can be coated, too.
The portion of the pipes where the heatmuff will be installed should not be coated if you want heat.

Hummm will having coating on the pipe cause a problem (thermal stress) where the coating starts and stops? I don't know I am just asking. Anyone try this, because I would like to do that but was afraid of this coating discontinuity. Thanks cool stuff, I mean hot stuff.

G

Cobra: I told you not to tell me that.

Tandem46 · #8 09-15-2005, 11:03 AM

RV8CH,

I'm also interested in coating my exhausts, I think there is entirely too much heat down there. You said "I spoke to a lot of the exhaust guys at OSH" May I ask who these "exhaust guys" were?

If the exhaust is coated inside and out, I don't see why Vetterman is worried so much about it. Coating just outside would seem to trap heat inside the metal, but coating in and out seems to me would only give heat only one way to go, out the end of the exhaust. Sound reasonable?

Tobin

dan · #9 09-15-2005, 11:30 AM

I agree that coating inside & out is the way to go. People have mentioned "masking off" the exhaust where the heat muff goes, but that only works on the outside. If the inside is coated, then I would expect that the heat muff would barely extract any heat, even if the outside is not coated where the muff goes.

I use my heat pretty rarely but I do use it. I'm curious how people have tackled the heat thing when they've ceramic coated the INSIDE of the pipes.

Has anybody on this forum actually done this, or are we all just talking out of our ?

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (622 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com

gmcjetpilot · #10 09-15-2005, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dan

I use my heat pretty rarely but I do use it. I'm curious how people have tackled the heat thing when they've ceramic coated the INSIDE of the pipes. Dan RV-7

I ask the same question above on #4 Dan and the reply was mask the area off.

Then I was curious about thermal stress (#7). Exhaust cracks are a critical thing.

I kind of answered my own question. (Dan, this is where I talk out of my....

) Just don't ceramic coat the entire pipe with the heat muff for the entire length. This may not work for the cross-over exhaust pipe, but I have a 4-into-1 (pic below).

My heat muff is on # 1 cylinder. Since the 4-into-1 is just four seperate pipes going to a collector, I could just not ceramic coat the #1 pipe. The collector is just a slip joint and held on with floating links. I could even ceramic coat the #1 pipe from the exhaust port flange to the slip/ball joint. The section of pipe should get as hot or hotter. Since the exhuast heats the metal and it is this hot metal that heats the air thru convectioin it should work. My pipes from AET (Aircraft Exhaust Technology) has the heat studs. These are like welded on with special equipment used in other stainless aerospace exhaust applications. (click to enlarge)

I love the idea of ceramic coating keeping under the cowl heat down. One side point is for us carb guys, is carb ice. Part of the reason Lycoming engines have little problem with carb ice is the heated sump and the fact the carb is cooking under the hot cowl. Heating the body of the carb itself no doubt contributes to anti-carb-ice. May be I am overthinking it or just talking out my...... Any ideas, or as Dan asked someone who has done this?

G