|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

07-16-2008, 03:46 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
|
|
Lightspeed/Lycoming 4 cyl direct crank install
Well... I've put it off long enough and would like to see if anyone has pics and documentation on installing the Lightspeed Direct Crank system on a Lycoming. I still need to drill the flywheel and install the plate... from the start as you might say. HELP PLEASE!!!!
Makes me nervous just thinking about it...
Thanks in advance!
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
|

07-16-2008, 03:53 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 178
|
|
Klaus
will drill the ring gear and install the pickups for 50.00 (+freight). Go to his web site there are directions there, or used to be.
Allen
|

07-16-2008, 03:59 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
|
|
I did mine in the shop. Measure more than twice, drill once. I think there are a few pictures and commentary somewhere on my build log. No big deal. Ok, I actually made a full size template in autocad just to double check my measurements. Sanity check. It is all about that angular alignment.
__________________
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
|

07-16-2008, 04:07 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by scard
I did mine in the shop. Measure more than twice, drill once. I think there are a few pictures and commentary somewhere on my build log. No big deal. Ok, I actually made a full size template in autocad just to double check my measurements. Sanity check. It is all about that angular alignment.
|
Hello Scott,
Yes, I remember now... you did the change over. How does beer and ribeyes sound? I know your work is awesome... Can you help a fellow out?   
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
|

07-16-2008, 04:28 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
|
|
Just draw yourself up a template (picture in the post below) and go for it:
http://rv9a.card-net.org/archives/20...-fwf-progress/
Be careful with the magnets, if you tap or press them too hard, they'll break. You only get one shot at it and I don't want to be anywhere near if it doesn't work out  .
__________________
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
|

07-16-2008, 05:31 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 2,331
|
|
transfer punch
To properly locate the holes to be drilled in the crankcase, get a set of transfer punches. (Search for them if you don't know what they are.) Get the proper size numbered drill for the thread (IIRC, it is 1/4-28?). Get a high quality thread tap, and experiment on some blocks of aluminum if you aren't comfortable with tapping threads. Get a good aluminum tapping fluid, Tap Magic makes some.
Hold the mounting plate in position, and have an assistant transfer one hole, using the transfer punch, to the crankcase. You may need to space the plate away from the crankcase a small amount to get the transfer punch to be fully engaged with the mounting plate. Remove the stuff, and drill a small pilot hole, maybe a 3/32" hole or so, then drill the tap size. Tap this hole, and then mount the plate again on the engine using the one bolt. You may need to put spacers under it to allow the transfer punches to properly engage, and then transfer the remaining holes. Tap away and that part will be done.
Send the pulley thingy to Klaus, well worth the $50.
__________________
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 1700+ hours
KADC, Wadena, MN
|

07-16-2008, 07:44 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexPeterson
To properly locate the holes to be drilled in the crankcase, get a set of transfer punches. (Search for them if you don't know what they are.) Get the proper size numbered drill for the thread (IIRC, it is 1/4-28?). Get a high quality thread tap, and experiment on some blocks of aluminum if you aren't comfortable with tapping threads. Get a good aluminum tapping fluid, Tap Magic makes some.
Hold the mounting plate in position, and have an assistant transfer one hole, using the transfer punch, to the crankcase. You may need to space the plate away from the crankcase a small amount to get the transfer punch to be fully engaged with the mounting plate. Remove the stuff, and drill a small pilot hole, maybe a 3/32" hole or so, then drill the tap size. Tap this hole, and then mount the plate again on the engine using the one bolt. You may need to put spacers under it to allow the transfer punches to properly engage, and then transfer the remaining holes. Tap away and that part will be done.
Send the pulley thingy to Klaus, well worth the $50.
|
Thanks Alex!! You're always on spot with info. Flywheel will go to Klaus, we will then feel our way SLOWWWWLY thru the rest. Wish there was more support on this install locally.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
Last edited by LifeofReiley : 07-16-2008 at 07:47 PM.
|

07-16-2008, 07:58 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,523
|
|
Darrell, while you're at it.. ask Klaus to install the bigger magnet (1/4" size) on the flywheel.. I like that option as it gives you more range for the gap and is there in case you ever decide to go dual LSE...
__________________
Radomir
RV-7A sold
|

07-16-2008, 08:16 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radomir
Darrell, while you're at it.. ask Klaus to install the bigger magnet (1/4" size) on the flywheel.. I like that option as it gives you more range for the gap and is there in case you ever decide to go dual LSE...
|
Awesome info... did not have have a clue about this one! Will discuss this in the morning with klaus. I will probably go dual with-in a year of flying. Thanks!
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
|

07-16-2008, 09:00 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,647
|
|
Another option, depending on how close you are to the Dallas/Ft. Worth area is to ask Superior how much to do it. They've got a jig; we did mine in minutes, while I was at the build school, for dual LSEs. Great people to deal with but I really have no idea how much a shop job like that would run. They might also be willing to drill the crankcase bosses if you need it; can't hurt to ask. Check out the thread on Lightspeed Wiring Specs, too.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
Last edited by flion : 07-16-2008 at 09:06 PM.
Reason: Forgot something.
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:13 AM.
|