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  #1  
Old 07-01-2008, 09:40 PM
weriderv8a weriderv8a is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacramento Calif
Posts: 20
Unhappy Oil filter extension

I bought my Eagle Engines IO360 in June of 06 and had it prepped for long term storage.When ordered I also bought the AEL22772-1 angeled oil filter adapter assembly (top mount faces down to drain) I hung the engine Thursday and had to remove the filter for better clearance while installing, when I went to reinstall it I discovered it would not fit. The filter is about 1" to high and hits on the dynofocal mount top crossbar.
I called Eagle Engine and they informed me that that the early version was too short and a spacer was needed and $58.00 later sent me the needed part.
Problem is I have to remove a stud to install the new part. The extension is 3inches longer and they gave me all the hardware but I have to remove one stud first as it it too short. Everything else is a bolt except for this one stud. I heated the stud and did the double locking bolt trick and it did not budge. Before I use vice grips and snap it off I'm looking for advice on how to remove the stud without having to remove the engine. I have a good deal of access , I just need to know the best method to brake the stud loose.
I also wonder if there is a shorter oil filter I can use. They installed Champion aero spin on #CH48108-1. It's 4 3/4" long. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Tom Davies
N60TD (reserved)
At this rate I'll never finish
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2008, 05:03 AM
mahlon_r mahlon_r is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,024
Default

Tom,
The spacer was always needed on a RV-4 and 8 to make that filter adapter fit. The filter adapter dimensions have never changed to the best of my knowledge. You want to heat the aluminum around the stud not the stud itself. You are trying to heat the aluminum around the stud, to expand the hole the stud is screwed into. This in effect should possibly loosen the stud up a little. When heating the aluminum around the stud try hitting the stud on it's end with a hammer a few times. Also, just before you try to turn the stud out, you could try touching it with a wet rag to try and cool it off and thus shrink the stud, hopefully loosening it?s grip in the hole.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2008, 12:47 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default Vice grips

I don't know what the glue is these A&P types use but it sticks incredibly well..I had to remove a stud to use a Pmag in place of the Impulse coupling....Vice grips was the only way and the thing fought me to the very end!

Frank
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2008, 01:04 PM
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scard scard is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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Get an engine built by Mahlon and you won't have such problems. Thanks Mahlon.
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2008, 07:19 PM
weriderv8a weriderv8a is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacramento Calif
Posts: 20
Smile Got it

Thanks Mahlon .I did as you advised and after a fierce battle the sucker popped loose and surrendered. The problem seemed to be the amount of heat required. Much more than if it were a cast block but then the aluminum is meant to dissipate heat.I must also give credit to James at Eagle Engines. Seems he reads this thread and as soon as he saw my post called me to advise MORE HEAT. For those that may face this problem in the future (God forbid) purchase a micro torch ,fill it, and keep the heat on as you tap the stud and keep pressure on the vice grip.Worked for me..Thanks again everyone.....Tom
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