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06-26-2008, 04:03 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 496
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Baffles- Tension Rod Thread Cutting
The tension rods on the bottom of the baffles are stainless steel. I have had no luck with cutting threads on them...my die won't even scratch it. Any hints?
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Don Alexander
RV-8 Finished After 8 1/2 Years (2496 hours) of Loving Labor
Summerville, SC
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06-26-2008, 04:59 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman
The tension rods on the bottom of the baffles are stainless steel. I have had no luck with cutting threads on them...my die won't even scratch it. Any hints?
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I had the same trouble until I purchased a higher quality die.
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Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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06-26-2008, 06:14 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,551
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Thread cutting
I guess the dies I inherited from my late father-in-law were good ones (they're probably as old as me - and I ain't young). I didn'nt have any trouble either.
Scott Hersha
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06-26-2008, 06:19 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
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Use something bigger
I used a small bolt cutter like you would cut a lock. Then used a bench grinder and cleaned up the cut and rounded the corner. Nut went right on.
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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06-26-2008, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 1,519
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I had real trouble getting the first thread cut - in other words, I had a problem getting it started.
I finally figured out that if I put a good taper on the end (using my medium polishing wheel) the die would seat on the rod end and it was much easier to get it going. Then it was just a matter of working it back and forth making a little progress each time.
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Rick Aronow,
A&P
Flying 7A Slider;
RV-12 SOLD
Highland Village,TX
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06-26-2008, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 650
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Threaded rod
I bought stainless threaded rod, and bent it gently to go around the higher (lower) spots on the cylinders.
As Webb mentioned in a previous post, then cut and clean the ends. I suspect Webb used a threaded rod as well.
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Alfio
RV-9A Ottawa, Canada
First flight Dec. 18, 2008
> 1,000 hrs tach.
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06-26-2008, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
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Let me clarify
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycosaurus
I bought stainless threaded rod, and bent it gently to go around the higher (lower) spots on the cylinders.
As Webb mentioned in a previous post, then cut and clean the ends. I suspect Webb used a threaded rod as well.
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I should have said die instead of nut (duh). The rods were solid, not threaded.
You HAVE to taper the end slightly to get the die to bite. Clamp the rod in your vise and use plenty of oil. I had the same problem. Start the die and progress slowly, work back and forth and it will happen. The key is to taper the end so the die will bite. (trust me)
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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06-26-2008, 12:33 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 496
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Thanks everyone.
I will go buy a good die and throw out my cheapie from The Land of Not Quite
Right.
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Don Alexander
RV-8 Finished After 8 1/2 Years (2496 hours) of Loving Labor
Summerville, SC
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06-26-2008, 12:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman
The tension rods on the bottom of the baffles are stainless steel. I have had no luck with cutting threads on them...my die won't even scratch it. Any hints?
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What's wrong with the good ole tie wire method? You will not be cussing the nuts on stainless down the road... 
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Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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06-26-2008, 03:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
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Don't throw yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman
Thanks everyone.
I will go buy a good die and throw out my cheapie from The Land of Not Quite
Right.
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Before you throw, taper it and see if it will bite. Once it starts to bite, it will cut it. Don't forget the oil and work it back and forth eating a little up with each new turn.
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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