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06-22-2008, 12:09 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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subpanel, fwd skin, when to rivet
The fuselage plans stop after the fwd fuse ribs, subpanel forward top skin etc are drilled together. Doesn't say to rivet this stuff yet. Is it OK to rivet this fwd structure together before getting the finish kit? What about the fwd top skin, can that be riveted on before the finish kit arrives?
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Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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06-22-2008, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 46
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Hey Phil,
Don't rivet the forward deck skin on until near the end of the build. Alot of your firewall forward and the systems aft of the firewall would be a real pain to install if you had to crawl under that skin each time you needed to do something.
Steve
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06-22-2008, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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but doesn't that forward skin need to be on before the forward part of the canopy (slider) is put on?
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Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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06-22-2008, 01:47 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Carp, Ont
Posts: 347
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wait
the forward part of the canopy can be done later. You will regret it if you put the skin on before the electrical work is done. I am now troubleshooting mine and it is no fun going under the panel!
Andrew
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06-22-2008, 03:35 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye
but doesn't that forward skin need to be on before the forward part of the canopy (slider) is put on?
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Yes, but you'll want everything else done before you attach the windscreen. In my case, the windscreen and forward turtledeck were the last two steps before final assembly.
Also, leave the NACA scoops off until the end. That will let you reach in and buck the rivets for the forward turtledeck.
Vern
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V e r n. ====
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RV-9A complete
Harmon Rocket complete
S-21 wings complete
Victoria, BC (Summer)
Chandler, Az (Winter)
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06-22-2008, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
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on my head upside down
I wished I had waited. Today, I put the manifold sensor and some other wires in on my back, upside down, and under the panel with my feet over the side rail.
If you can afford it, wire AS MUCH as you can and while you can get to it. I kid you not. It would have been SO much easier.
Hmmm....something to think about now.
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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06-23-2008, 01:35 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 661
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Ditto on what everyone has said. I was trying to get my -7A slider ready to paint before cold weather last fall so I finished up the front turtle deck before starting the wiring. Turned out that I didn't get it finished before cold weather hit so I had to wait until this Summer to paint anyway. Now I am wiring while climbing around, under and through the completed fuselage.

A big glove box cutout does help though

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______________________
Steve Eberhart, W9JUQ
3EV - Evansville, IN
Where is Steve and the Sky Terrier?
RV-7A Slider, O-360 A1A, Catto 3 blade, 2 screen Garmin G3X Classic, GTN 650, Bionics APRS. FLYING since June 24, 2009
EAA Chapter 21
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06-23-2008, 06:56 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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OK thanks guys. So I'll leave the skin off, but rivet the ribs and subpanel in there.
Q2: Does anybody have a photo showing the modification required of the fwd fuse ribs in order to accommodate a large-screen dynon?
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Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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07-15-2008, 06:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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riveting
Quote:
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Also, leave the NACA scoops off until the end. That will let you reach in and buck the rivets for the forward turtledeck
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Once all the wiring and stuff is done back there it seems to me that this will be a VERY difficult area to buck many of those rivets. Did anybody use blind rivets on their turtledeck?
__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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07-15-2008, 07:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 878
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It's not too bad at all
Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye
Once all the wiring and stuff is done back there it seems to me that this will be a VERY difficult area to buck many of those rivets. Did anybody use blind rivets on their turtledeck?
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Phil,
The forward deck is not hard to do at all. I was thinking it would be a bear.
It does take two people, of course. One rivet at a time and you'll be done in two hours!
I used about a dozen cherry-max blind rivets. Three on each side near the engine mount upper bolt. And the rest by the roll bar.
Mark
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Mark Burns
Ruston, Louisiana
RV-7A N781CM 1,650+ hrs
FFI FL-24
A&P
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