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  #1  
Old 06-22-2008, 12:09 PM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Default subpanel, fwd skin, when to rivet

The fuselage plans stop after the fwd fuse ribs, subpanel forward top skin etc are drilled together. Doesn't say to rivet this stuff yet. Is it OK to rivet this fwd structure together before getting the finish kit? What about the fwd top skin, can that be riveted on before the finish kit arrives?
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2008, 01:40 PM
aerolite aerolite is offline
 
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Default

Hey Phil,

Don't rivet the forward deck skin on until near the end of the build. Alot of your firewall forward and the systems aft of the firewall would be a real pain to install if you had to crawl under that skin each time you needed to do something.

Steve
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2008, 01:43 PM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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but doesn't that forward skin need to be on before the forward part of the canopy (slider) is put on?
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  #4  
Old 06-22-2008, 01:47 PM
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andrew phillips andrew phillips is offline
 
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Default wait

the forward part of the canopy can be done later. You will regret it if you put the skin on before the electrical work is done. I am now troubleshooting mine and it is no fun going under the panel!

Andrew
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2008, 03:35 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye View Post
but doesn't that forward skin need to be on before the forward part of the canopy (slider) is put on?
Yes, but you'll want everything else done before you attach the windscreen. In my case, the windscreen and forward turtledeck were the last two steps before final assembly.

Also, leave the NACA scoops off until the end. That will let you reach in and buck the rivets for the forward turtledeck.

Vern
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  #6  
Old 06-22-2008, 08:41 PM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
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Default on my head upside down

I wished I had waited. Today, I put the manifold sensor and some other wires in on my back, upside down, and under the panel with my feet over the side rail.

If you can afford it, wire AS MUCH as you can and while you can get to it. I kid you not. It would have been SO much easier.

Hmmm....something to think about now.
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  #7  
Old 06-23-2008, 01:35 AM
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newtech newtech is offline
 
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Default

Ditto on what everyone has said. I was trying to get my -7A slider ready to paint before cold weather last fall so I finished up the front turtle deck before starting the wiring. Turned out that I didn't get it finished before cold weather hit so I had to wait until this Summer to paint anyway. Now I am wiring while climbing around, under and through the completed fuselage.

A big glove box cutout does help though
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  #8  
Old 06-23-2008, 06:56 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Default

OK thanks guys. So I'll leave the skin off, but rivet the ribs and subpanel in there.

Q2: Does anybody have a photo showing the modification required of the fwd fuse ribs in order to accommodate a large-screen dynon?
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:53 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Default riveting

Quote:
Also, leave the NACA scoops off until the end. That will let you reach in and buck the rivets for the forward turtledeck
Once all the wiring and stuff is done back there it seems to me that this will be a VERY difficult area to buck many of those rivets. Did anybody use blind rivets on their turtledeck?
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2008, 07:10 AM
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Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
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Default It's not too bad at all

Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye View Post
Once all the wiring and stuff is done back there it seems to me that this will be a VERY difficult area to buck many of those rivets. Did anybody use blind rivets on their turtledeck?
Phil,
The forward deck is not hard to do at all. I was thinking it would be a bear.
It does take two people, of course. One rivet at a time and you'll be done in two hours!

I used about a dozen cherry-max blind rivets. Three on each side near the engine mount upper bolt. And the rest by the roll bar.

Mark
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