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  #1  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:23 PM
RScott RScott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Estacada, OR
Posts: 787
Default Gear legs won't go into sockets

I used Scotchbrite to remove any roughness, rust, burs, etc. Made sure the powdercoat was not interfering.

I greased the machined portions of the legs and the sockets (weldments) really well.

I shoved them on and one of them goes almost all the way, but shy of about 3/8" from enough. Hammer it with a rubber mallet, used a rivet gun on a block of wood, twisted it around, nothing seems to work.

Searched the archives, best I found is that someone called Van's, who said, "don't sand it down; it's supposed to be tight". Called Van's myself; they said use a little crocus cloth to polish the machined surfaces. Both legs stop about 3/8" short of going on.

Short of using a sledge hammer or a jack hammer, how did you get your gear legs on the sockets?

Thanks.
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Last edited by RScott : 05-29-2008 at 04:42 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:29 PM
Jamie's Avatar
Jamie Jamie is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Default

Did you apply oil to them?

It's recommended to prevent corrosion but it does help getting them in there.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:42 PM
RScott RScott is offline
 
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Location: Estacada, OR
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Default

Yup, used grease, also tried oil.
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:51 PM
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jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
Posts: 1,301
Default

Any powder coat build-up near the edges?
That can be just enough to prevent the last bit of engagement.
Jim Sharkey
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2008, 06:12 PM
flybill7 flybill7 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Severna Park, Maryland
Posts: 446
Default Gear Legs

I had the same problem when mounting my 7 on the gear. It was the powder coating that caused the problem. Sanding a little off the edge on each gear leg with the Dremel sanding drum made all the difference.

... Bill
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2008, 07:07 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,499
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RScott View Post
I used Scotchbrite to remove any roughness, rust, burs, etc. Made sure the powdercoat was not interfering.

I greased the machined portions of the legs and the sockets (weldments) really well.

I shoved them on and one of them goes almost all the way, but shy of about 3/8" from enough. Hammer it with a rubber mallet, used a rivet gun on a block of wood, twisted it around, nothing seems to work.

Searched the archives, best I found is that someone called Van's, who said, "don't sand it down; it's supposed to be tight". Called Van's myself; they said use a little crocus cloth to polish the machined surfaces. Both legs stop about 3/8" short of going on.

Short of using a sledge hammer or a jack hammer, how did you get your gear legs on the sockets?

Thanks.
Richard,
The issue is that Vans vendor machines the sockets to size BEFORE they do the welding! Duh, that is why there are tight spots. The welding distorts the tubing. Rather than attempt to correct this via hand sanding, I purchased an adjustable reamer from MSC. I then measured the diameter of the gear legs. I adjusted the reamer to be .001" larger and ran it through the socket. The only place it removed metal was at the welds. After reaming, everything fit beautifully.
Charlie Kuss
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2008, 09:23 PM
RScott RScott is offline
 
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Location: Estacada, OR
Posts: 787
Default More info

One thing I forgot to mention: With both sides, I can turn the weldment around and slide it on upside down the same distance as if it were installed properly, i.e., it needs another 3/8" to go on all the way.

That means: It isn't the welds, because both ends of the socket pass the upper machined surface. It isn't the powdercoat, because it slides past the powdercoat except for the area below the second (lower) machined surface, and still has about 1/8" of machined surface exposed.

Help, guys! I have been struggling with this for parts of 3 days, now.

Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 05-29-2008, 10:29 PM
Mark Burns's Avatar
Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 878
Default OK

Quote:
Originally Posted by RScott View Post
One thing I forgot to mention: With both sides, I can turn the weldment around and slide it on upside down the same distance as if it were installed properly, i.e., it needs another 3/8" to go on all the way.

That means: It isn't the welds, because both ends of the socket pass the upper machined surface. It isn't the powdercoat, because it slides past the powdercoat except for the area below the second (lower) machined surface, and still has about 1/8" of machined surface exposed.

Help, guys! I have been struggling with this for parts of 3 days, now.

Thanks.
Sounds like it's not the weldments. I think the next step is to mic the gearlegs. They must be larger in diameter where they start to get tight.
Then you might want to contact Vans with the measurements. They "might" suggest you sand (polish) the legs a little more.

Mark
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Last edited by Mark Burns : 05-29-2008 at 10:57 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2008, 10:40 PM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 837
Default

How about heating up the sockets with a heat gun while the gear legs spend some quality time in the freezer.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2008, 11:45 PM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,745
Default

Had to sand the legs on my 6A (both sets) and rework the right weldment on my -10 as it distorted .018 when all the bolts were tightened down. Had to remove itand drill out all the bolt holes and file a couple more. Was the worst fitting part on the whole plane.

I think this is pretty common.
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