Electrical Tape

[Brambo]

Van's instructions for putting a fiberglass fairing on the forward windscreen involve layers of "electrical tape". The only electrical tape that I have ever been expossed to has been the black streachy stuff used for home wiring repair.

It doesn't seem like that is the kind of tape he's talking about here. Is there another type of electrical tape, and if so, where do I get some?

[scard]

That is exactly what he is talking about. Get the "good stuff", and it works great.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by scard

That is exactly what he is talking about. Get the "good stuff", and it works great.

Scott is right. The black tape can curve around the plexi, allowing you get a good clean edge for the fiberglass.

One suggestion, start about three to four inches above where you want the final line to be. Then lay consecutive layers of tape down until your last pieces is where you want your final line.

If you do this you will be able to replace that last piece or two of tape when they get damaged by the sanding you will have to do.

Also, I did all my layups at one time, per the hint in the instructions. This worked out very well.

[DanH]

The alternates are 3M specialty masking tapes. See your local body shop supply house.

Fine Line 218 - Sorta beige-gray in color, poly plastic, available in widths down to 1/16", flexible, more or less the industry standard for masking a color break line.

Scotch Plastic Tape 471 - Blue in color, more flexible than 218, widths as low as 1/8". Great stuff, bends around small radius curves, no paint bleed.

The advantage to either one is adhesive that won't surface transfer, as well as being solvent resistant. And they won't turn loose, curl, or spring back.

I used 3/4" wide 471 for that fiberglass/plexiglass transition edge, but nothing wrong with electrical tape for simple sanding protection. You will want
to remask with the good stuff when you start spraying primers and paint.

Tip; you can stack several layers of 471 along the plexiglass transition edge to define the thickness of your fiberglass or filler edge. You get about .005" per layer. Sand the fiberglass glass edge flush with the tape
surface for even thickness all along the edge.

BTW, the good crepe masking tape is 233+, bright green in color. Lay down 218 or 471 to define the finish edge, lap 233+ partially over it to continue your masking. Don't use blue 2090 with solvent based paint.

[Mark Burns]

Originally Posted by scard

That is exactly what he is talking about. Get the "good stuff", and it works great.

Scotch? Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Originally Posted by N941WR

Also, I did all my layups at one time, per the hint in the instructions. This worked out very well.

How long did it take you? I've always been curious about whether it's best to do a few layups...let dry...come back later...do a few more... etc.

[Webb]

If you build a slider, be darn sure you put some type of release agent on top of the tape so you can get the halves apart. I felt sure the tape would easily release but NO NO NO, it took me 3 hours to get it loose. It stuck on the tape just enough to make me think it wasn't going to break loose. Needless to say I was pissed and fearful I was going to break the plexiglass.

Ask others what they used.

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by Webb

If you build a slider, be darn sure you put some type of release agent on top of the tape so you can get the halves apart. I felt sure the tape would easily release but NO NO NO, it took me 3 hours to get it loose. It stuck on the tape just enough to make me think it wasn't going to break loose. Needless to say I was pissed and fearful I was going to break the plexiglass.

Ask others what they used.

Just in case you----or someone else gets into this situation again-----try this trick.

Get a small part of the layup loose, and then squirt air from your blow gun under the layup. You dont have to use a lot of pressure, just direct the stream fairly flat to the surface, and things will usually come right up.

Works well for getting parts out of a mold too.

Wear safety glasses/goggles, by the way.

YMMV, but it sure works for me.

[Rivethead]

I'll get a picture of a roll of it later tonight and edit it into this post. For now I can tell you there is some nice stretchy stuff you can get at home depot that is basically electrical tape but it's two inches wide and works great for masking off the canopy. Comes in different Mil thickness and you can feather out to it and leave a nice paintable edge behind.



It's a pipe and conduit wrap made of rubber.

[Kahuna]

Originally Posted by Webb

If you build a slider, be darn sure you put some type of release agent on top of the tape so you can get the halves apart. I felt sure the tape would easily release but NO NO NO, it took me 3 hours to get it loose. It stuck on the tape just enough to make me think it wasn't going to break loose. Needless to say I was pissed and fearful I was going to break the plexiglass.

Ask others what they used.

Really? Man good thing you said that cause I was thinking reading this thread that electrical tape would be a great surface to lay against for release. I would have been wrong.