Not using the jettison feature on the tipup?

[Brantel]

For those that did not use the jettison feature of the tipup, please share how you are securing the pins or if your using bolts. Pics would be great if you have a great idea. I am not planning to use it at all due to the fact that I want my radio stack closer to the pilot side and that puts the longer radio's penetrating the hat section etc. Some install everything with the bellcrank actuating rod vertical behind the subpanel but this gets in the way of my plan.

Thanks!

[kentb]

I didn't use any of the ejection hardware in the middle of the panel as I wanted the space for radios. Yeah, I know I went overboard, but I couldn't help myself.



I did use the pin that came with the kit, but ran them in from the outside instead of the inside of the structure.


I used an Adel clamp with a screw and platenut to make sure that they don't fall out.
I still needed to lay on my back to remove and insert these pins during final assembly, but don't ever expect to remove them again.

Kent

[Mel]

Originally Posted by kentb

I still needed to lay on my back to remove and insert these pins during final assembly, but don't ever expect to remove them again.

Kent

I've had mine off several times. Down the road when new "stuff" comes out, it's much easier to work on with the canopy off.

[RV7Guy]

I didn't do it on my plane but wish I had. As Mel noted, there are times it would have been nice to remove canopy for painting, putting a new seal on, radio maintenance etc...

Wow, my 1000th post!!

[Brantel]

Thus the reason for still making provisions to get the bolts or pins out.

To me at this point, the benifits of not having that stuff in the way will greatly improve my panel layout and I can still pull the pins if I need the thing off.

Sure it will be more difficult, but not that painfull all things concidered.

[frankh]

[img=http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/4323/hpim1683ju8.th.jpg]

I made the access panels in the top front deck..Removing one of those gives access to the tab brazed on the end of the 1/8th welding rod.

remove the screw, pull out welding rod and sharpened pins can be removed because the smaller brake tube slides insides the bigger brake tube.

sharpened points on pins aids realignment when you reinsatll.

Frank

[frankh]

[img=http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7131/hpim1684nv7.th.jpg]

Note there is NO hole on the inner rod...that way you don't have to align holes in the inner and outer tube.

Works great

[frankh]

Forgot to mention...There are no clamps or anything else to get to...What you see is the sum total of what holds the whole thing in place.

Brake hose is 3/8ths and whatever size slides inside it, available from the local autoparts store...Take your vervier calipers with you.

Total cost less tha $5 I think...Brake tubing is very useful stuff!

Frank

[Radomir]

pls allow a little blasphemy Lowes (and H.D. I'm sure) sells pins that are pre-drilled at several locations along the way.. forgot what they're called. use some sort of cotter pin and that will keep it from backing out. I know it's not "aviation grade" but I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

[frankh]

Those cotter pins will be very hard to get to.

Besides i wouldn't trust a cotter pin not to fall out and the pin back out of the hinge.

That would be bad!