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  #1  
Old 05-21-2008, 05:36 PM
trib trib is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 474
Default Manual Trim Knob

Looking at some 6A panels, the vertical piece between the fuel selector bracket and the panel has been omitted and an extension mounted below the panel to mounted the mixture, throttle and carb heat (and prop control if used) side-by-side is installed. This makes it much easier I suppose to get under the panel when you need to since the vertical member essentially gives you half the room. Has anyone mounted their cable controls in this manner that uses a manual elevator trim? If so, where did you put the elevator trim knob so that the cable is not a cockpit obstruction? Pictures would definitely help if you had them.

thanks loads!
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2008, 06:38 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
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This is how I dealt with it. It has worked very well for well over 400 hours of flight time. You may notice the carb heat knob at the right of the sub panel. This proved to be very bothersome to my passenger on a long haul. I cut off the right end of the sub panel and moved the carb heat control up into the panel. I also added a CHT gauge and an outside air temp gauge to the right side panel and the Altrak switch to the left part of the panel, replaced the turn coordinator with a Pictorial Pilot (autopilot), added associated circuit breakers and switches and removed the gyro instruments for overhaul with no access problems. As you can see my RV-6A is a slider.

Bob Axsom

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 05-21-2008 at 06:39 PM. Reason: typo
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2008, 07:12 PM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
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I put my manual trim control about the same location as Bob, but attached to the panel below the quadrant.

Much better when flying in formation and the knob does not interfere with my leg. It's easy to remove with two screws and lay aside when crawling under the panel.
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2008, 09:38 AM
trib trib is offline
 
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Vernon,

Does this mean you have two subpanels attached to the panel, one for the quadrant and a second one attached below the quadrant panel for the trim? I then assume the second one attaches to the first quadrant, which attaches to the panel. This sounds like an arrangement which might fit my desires.
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:24 AM
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sprucemoose sprucemoose is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MKE
Posts: 1,519
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It's not a great pic but you get the idea. The cable goes straight forward, runs down along the firewall to the floor, and along the florr under the carpet back through the spar/ bulkhead. It is secured in place by about half a dozen adel clamps along the firewall and floor stiffeners.

The trick is to get a longer cable. IIRC the cable was 40 inches longer than the standard, but you should mock it up with some romex or similar first and measure.
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:49 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
Default RV7 finish kit?

Depending on your finish kit date, you may have the 7 kit. This would be the firewall mounted battery, etc...
If you add on the FI portion of the kit, Van's can help you, it will come with parts for the FI pump and all of the appropriate parts to dress up the fuel selector and Manual Trim. It is very clean and neat requiring only slight modification where it attaches to the spar as that is different on the 6 vs the 7.
Even if you dont need the FI, the parts make it easy and clean and the tunnel is a great way to route wires aft and through the spar.

I will send you pics tonight.
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  #7  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:01 AM
Excaptusmc Excaptusmc is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Visalia, Ca
Posts: 33
Default Trim cable location

I mounted mine facing aft. I shortened the manual flap handle and placed it (the trim cable) so the knob faces forward from between the seat cushions. The knob is completely accessible and logical in usage. Since I put my fuel selector on the left side, there is no interference. A little metal work and you can make a nice cover which hides all but the knob. I wish I knew how to do pictures.
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:11 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Just add a small "ear" to the front of the fuel selector bracket angled up about 45*. My -6 and many more have done this. Been working great for over 15 years.
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