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  #21  
Old 05-28-2008, 08:38 PM
longez360 longez360 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 23
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Gang,

McMaster-Carr page 2912 (http://www.mcmaster.com/) has an option for $63.64 worth serious consideration. "Remote Actuation Cable Latches with T-Handle". Probably adaptable (locknuts, etc).

In terms of a carbon door, always be aware of material compatibility. Carbon and alum don't mix - add a ply of fibreglass and paint. Steel should be passivated stainless. CAD on carbon aint great either.

Cheers

Wayne Blackler
O-360 Long EZ
Melbourne AUSTRALIA
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2008, 08:52 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcjetpilot View Post
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.

I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.

I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.


Nice Work!
I did this except my hinge pin is from the firewall side and is held in place by the closed canopy
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  #23  
Old 05-28-2008, 08:54 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
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Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default That also works with plenum

cus thats what I got on my james cowl
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  #24  
Old 05-28-2008, 09:03 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default my hinge

Check this out

[img=http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/9066/hpim1715cx2.th.jpg]
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  #25  
Old 05-28-2008, 10:13 PM
tin man tin man is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: northern california
Posts: 297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcjetpilot View Post
Oh too much work for my lazy self, but looks great. I'm putting on some flush locks at the door, call it good.

I thought about it but have a pressure plenum which complicates a reach-in door release. If I did not have the plenum I might try it.

I drew up this simple inexpensive hidden relase (through right cowl inlet) using piano hinge.


Nice Work!
I did the same but instead of using a hinge extension I glassed in a piece of thick wall nylon tubing (brake stuff). It was very easy to route and has performed without problem for a couple of thousand hours,
tm
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  #26  
Old 06-01-2008, 07:56 PM
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ScottSchmidt ScottSchmidt is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 1,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevejohnson7@gmail.com View Post
Scott, You have me confused now. You wrote: "If I were to do it again I would probably just do the flush latches that most people use". Can you please explain to me the reasons why you would do the above?.
I spent alot of time on this latch and it is a single point latch. With less work I could have had a system that has a two point latch system, less work and most likely a stronger system.

I have multiple failure points (one latch, the wire that is crimped in the latch, ect..) and even though it is cooler to have a clean looking oil door, when you are at some grass strip in the middle of no where it is nice to have stuff that is simple and has a very low chance of failure.

I have had zero issues with this system but just something I would different now.

http://www.rvproject.com/20031101.html

Someday I may switch to a system like the one above.

But everyone should do what they want. Most of us will probably only build one plane in our lives and might as well make it just as you dream.
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Scott Schmidt
Salt Lake City, UT

RV-10 N104XP (1280 Hours)
RV-12 N321UT (Sold)
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  #27  
Old 06-04-2008, 12:56 PM
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hcccs hcccs is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 164
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How long did you make the hinge. Can you reach the wire easily or is the cylinder in the way?
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2008, 11:21 PM
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ScottSchmidt ScottSchmidt is offline
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcccs View Post
How long did you make the hinge. Can you reach the wire easily or is the cylinder in the way?
It took me about a week or two to completely finish the system. I had to modify the latch and do some extra machining, and do some trial and error since I didn't purchase the kit others ordered. I would fiberglass a section, and come back on work on it the next day. I also had to create some extra "hard" points in the cowl by drilling out the honeycomb and filling it with an epoxy mix.
I mounted the latch to these hard points.

As for reaching the pull cord, it is very easy to reach the cord. I just reach in the left cowl and pull the loop. I have a small cutout that I can get a finger in to lift the oil door. Works great.
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RV-10 N104XP (1280 Hours)
RV-12 N321UT (Sold)
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