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  #1  
Old 08-25-2005, 10:13 AM
dwilson dwilson is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
Default How do I squeeze tip rivets on elevator

Just about ready to finish the elevators on my RV9.

How in the world do I get a buck bar behind the last two rivets on the trailing edge of the root and tip ribs? There just isn't any room in there for my pneumatic squeezer or any buck bar I have seen?


What did you all do????

Thanks,
Duane
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  #2  
Old 08-25-2005, 10:46 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default There are a few ways

Duane,

Do a search of these pages, this topic has come up before.

There is a picture of how I did it on the bottom of my aileronweb page.
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  #3  
Old 08-25-2005, 01:08 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Default

A "no hole" yoke on the squeezer works great for this.
If you can borrow one from a local builder you can squeeze them all in a few minutes.
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  #4  
Old 08-25-2005, 02:21 PM
DeltaRomeo DeltaRomeo is offline
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Hey Duane,

I used flush pop rivets on those last two holes...

Best,
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  #5  
Old 08-25-2005, 03:49 PM
dwilson dwilson is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaRomeo
Hey Duane,

I used flush pop rivets on those last two holes...

Best,
Thanks Doug,

Bit I don't know what "flush" pop rivets are. Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?

Duane
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  #6  
Old 08-25-2005, 04:31 PM
DeltaRomeo DeltaRomeo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwilson
Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?
Duane
Yes, countersunk. See.....it's been a few years and I have already forgotten the name <grin>. I tried (like many) to buck 'em or come up with some fancy way to squeeze 'em.

After talking with some that are repeat builders I took their advice: pop rivet. No one will ever see it.

Image courtesy www.BylerRivet.com




Best,
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Last edited by DeltaRomeo : 08-25-2005 at 04:34 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-25-2005, 04:43 PM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Pretty sure Van specs out CS-4-4's there.

I am sure you have them with your kit.

Personally, the no hole yoke is my weapon of choice.

Reeeeeaaaally slick!

CJ
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  #8  
Old 08-25-2005, 05:08 PM
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William Slaughter William Slaughter is offline
 
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Location: Houston, Texas
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The thin nosed no-hole squeezer yoke will do most. I used the MK-319-BS pulled rivets in a few places. Unlike the CS4-4's, they will fit into the same countersink as the regular -3 solid rivet.

William
RV-8QB just finished the empannage
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  #9  
Old 08-25-2005, 05:31 PM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,

Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?

First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...

I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!

CJ
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2005, 09:27 PM
DGlaeser DGlaeser is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 878
Default Elevator TE rivets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_John
Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,

Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?

First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...

I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!

CJ
All rivets are structural fasteners (even pop rivets). The question is what loads can each type withstand. The loads on those rivets (at the TE of the elevator tip) are so low, it doesn't matter.

If I ever do this again, I will smear some JB Weld (or ProSeal) from the last drivable rivet to the end of the rib (after proper prep of course) and called it a done deal (then just fill the hole like you would a pop rivet).

I was able to drive solid rivets using a flat brick chisel (happened to have one laying around). I actually back-riveted them by laying the flush head on a back-rivet plate then sliding the chisel in against the rivet and used the rivet gun on the chisel. It was ugly but it worked.

Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings
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