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08-25-2005, 10:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
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How do I squeeze tip rivets on elevator
Just about ready to finish the elevators on my RV9.
How in the world do I get a buck bar behind the last two rivets on the trailing edge of the root and tip ribs? There just isn't any room in there for my pneumatic squeezer or any buck bar I have seen?
What did you all do????
Thanks,
Duane
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08-25-2005, 10:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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There are a few ways
Duane,
Do a search of these pages, this topic has come up before.
There is a picture of how I did it on the bottom of my aileron web page.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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08-25-2005, 01:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,024
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A "no hole" yoke on the squeezer works great for this.
If you can borrow one from a local builder you can squeeze them all in a few minutes.
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08-25-2005, 02:21 PM
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unqualified unfluencer
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 4,086
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Hey Duane,
I used flush pop rivets on those last two holes...
Best,
__________________
Doug Reeves (your host) - Full time: VansAirForce.net since '07 (started it in '96).
- Part time: Supporting Crew Member CAE Embraer Phenom 300 (E55P) @ KDFW.
- Occasionally: Contract pilot (resume).
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08-25-2005, 03:49 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by DeltaRomeo
Hey Duane,
I used flush pop rivets on those last two holes...
Best,
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Thanks Doug,
Bit I don't know what "flush" pop rivets are. Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?
Duane
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08-25-2005, 04:31 PM
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unqualified unfluencer
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 4,086
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dwilson
Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?
Duane
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Yes, countersunk. See.....it's been a few years and I have already forgotten the name <grin>. I tried (like many) to buck 'em or come up with some fancy way to squeeze 'em.
After talking with some that are repeat builders I took their advice: pop rivet. No one will ever see it.
Best,
__________________
Doug Reeves (your host) - Full time: VansAirForce.net since '07 (started it in '96).
- Part time: Supporting Crew Member CAE Embraer Phenom 300 (E55P) @ KDFW.
- Occasionally: Contract pilot (resume).
Last edited by DeltaRomeo : 08-25-2005 at 04:34 PM.
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08-25-2005, 04:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Pretty sure Van specs out CS-4-4's there.
I am sure you have them with your kit.
Personally, the no hole yoke is my weapon of choice.
Reeeeeaaaally slick!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
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08-25-2005, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 469
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The thin nosed no-hole squeezer yoke will do most. I used the MK-319-BS pulled rivets in a few places. Unlike the CS4-4's, they will fit into the same countersink as the regular -3 solid rivet.
William
RV-8QB just finished the empannage
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08-25-2005, 05:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,
Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?
First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...
I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
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08-25-2005, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 878
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Elevator TE rivets
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Captain_John
Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,
Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?
First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...
I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!
 CJ
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All rivets are structural fasteners (even pop rivets). The question is what loads can each type withstand. The loads on those rivets (at the TE of the elevator tip) are so low, it doesn't matter.
If I ever do this again, I will smear some JB Weld (or ProSeal) from the last drivable rivet to the end of the rib (after proper prep of course) and called it a done deal (then just fill the hole like you would a pop rivet).
I was able to drive solid rivets using a flat brick chisel (happened to have one laying around). I actually back-riveted them by laying the flush head on a back-rivet plate then sliding the chisel in against the rivet and used the rivet gun on the chisel. It was ugly but it worked.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings
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