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05-04-2008, 07:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 1,519
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What won't stick to proseal?
I want to make a Proseal gasket around the FAB carb door mating surface. I would like to put to proseal on the underside of the FAB top plate and press down on it with the door and have the proseal NOT stick to the door.
What can I put on the door so that the proseal doesn't stick to it? Wax paper, mold release wax,...?
__________________
Rick Aronow,
A&P
Flying 7A Slider;
RV-12 SOLD
Highland Village,TX
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05-04-2008, 08:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_A
What can I put on the door so that the proseal doesn't stick to it? Wax paper, mold release wax,...?
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The idea sounds right and it may work. I have been around polysulfite for 20-years and have never needed to not have it stick. Your technique does work with epoxy and fiberglass so it should work with proseal and metal.
I am thinking that you may want to run some experiments to see what will and will not work.
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Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
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05-04-2008, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 161
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Wet Seal (sp?)
That technique is called wet sealing. Good old vasoline works great on the surface you don't want the pro-seal to stick to.
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Noel Simmons (repeat builder) just ordered my 40th it's an 8!
406-538-6574
A&P CFI EAA Tech/EAA flight adviser
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05-04-2008, 08:39 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,647
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Saran Wrap works. A lot of people built their tanks and found that the proseal between the rear baffle and skin spread the skins slightly, making for a poor fit back to the spar. Also, there would often be a bead of ooze at the rear of the baffle that would interfere with the spar. My technique was to cover the spar in Saran Wrap and cleco the completed tank to it before the proseal set. Then, when the proseal had cured, the skins were held in perfect position. The proseal at the rear of the baffle was 'smooshed out' (a technical term  ) against the tank skin but the wrap kept it from sticking to the spar and it was no problem to peel the wrap away from the tank.
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05-04-2008, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_A
I want to make a Proseal gasket around the FAB carb door mating surface. I would like to put to proseal on the underside of the FAB top plate and press down on it with the door and have the proseal NOT stick to the door.
What can I put on the door so that the proseal doesn't stick to it? Wax paper, mold release wax,...?
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What you want to do is a widely used technique in the aerospace indusry. It is known as FIPS or Form In Place Sealing. Typically, an access panel (or cover) is treated with some non-stick parting agent, the structure to which the panel or cover is affixed is prepared by slathering it with a healthy layer of proseal. The access panel/cover is treated with parting agent. At least one RV builder has reported good results using teflon backed sticky tape. Choose your poison. A Google search will reveal any number of sources for a true proseal parting agent. Whatever parting agent you do settle upon, the cover is temporarily screwed into place. In the aerospace industry, fiber (non-stick) washers with a sticky adhesive on one side called "donuts" are centered atop the fastener holes between the structure and the cover before the proseal is applied. The donuts are essential in providing a uniform thickness to the proseal gasket. Even still, when attaching the cover, it is important not to overtorque the temporary screws or bolts holding it in place. The excess squeeze-out of wet waste proseal is immediately wiped away. After cure the cover is removed, the donuts removed from the dried proseal, the structure cleaned up, and the result should be a gasket-like layer of proseal that will provide lasting air-tight moisture protection.
__________________
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
Last edited by Rick6a : 05-04-2008 at 10:03 AM.
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05-04-2008, 01:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Beaumont, TX
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion
Saran Wrap works.
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Not to be confused with the great-forming Press 'n Seal stuff!!
(ask me how I know)
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Clayton Henderson
Beaumont, TX
RV-7 N454CH (Flying)
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05-04-2008, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Beautiful NJ Shore
Posts: 409
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Being an ex-fiberglass guy, we always used Scotch clear packing tape as a release 'agent'. Epoxy separates easily from it. Try a small test by putting a blob of ProSeal on a piece of packing tape and see if it will easily separate in the morning after a good cure.
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Greg Piney
RV-8 2547
Empennage Done!
Beginning Fuselage Final Assembly!
(Tub finished, on to Landing Gear).
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05-06-2008, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 1,519
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Vasaline
On the first try I used a generic Saran Wrap and discovered that ProSeal sticks very well to Saran wrap.
On the 2nd try, I used wax paper with a coating of a Vasaline like product that my wife had in her cosmetics drawer - the ProSeal did not stick at all.
__________________
Rick Aronow,
A&P
Flying 7A Slider;
RV-12 SOLD
Highland Village,TX
Last edited by Rick_A : 05-06-2008 at 03:51 PM.
Reason: grammer
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05-12-2008, 09:46 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lonoke, AR
Posts: 113
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Silicone Grease works
Dow Corning #4 (the stuff you are supposed to use on oil filters) works great as a parting agent.
Don
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