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  #1  
Old 04-28-2008, 06:19 AM
danielhv's Avatar
danielhv danielhv is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 936
Default Building a tank... need a size

Im having a tank made at a friends sheet metal shop for dipping my parts in alodine. Can anybody tell me what the longest and widest parts are on a 7/7A? I really prefer the dip method as it looks like it coats MUCH better. This tank will be long and shallow with a drain valve to drain the alodine back into a container for storage.
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2008, 07:53 AM
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Tbone Tbone is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South
Posts: 526
Default

Not sure about the slow build version, but on my 7QB I used a 8 in plastic pipe with caps on each end. I then cut an opening down the side and It resembles something akin to a trough. It has worked fine on all of the parts so far. If you are to build a metal tank I would make it at least 6ft x 8" x 8". Make sure that the metal will not be affected by your alodine mix.
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2008, 01:00 PM
Transporter Transporter is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 743
Default Alodine Tub(s)

I wouldn't make too big a tub/tank since you'd need a lot of product to get coverage and would probably end up with more overall waste. If you want to go this route you could use the wing spar crate; put a moveable divider in it and line it with heavy plastic sheeting as needed for shorter or longer parts.

I use a standard plastic dishpan for small parts and a large (106 qt) clear plastic tub from the local Ace Hardware for larger parts. The large tub is made by Sterilite and will hold two main wing ribs side by side (measures 29" long by 16" wide at the bottom).

I fill either tub just enough to cover the parts (usually about 2") and recycle the used Alodine 1201 (dip with a plastic measuring cup and pour into the used product jug, followed by a funnel for the small amount that remains).

For larger parts (spars, etc.) I use a kitchen-size celulose sponge; while the coating is not as uniform as the coating on parts that have been submersed, this is not a problem according to the Technical Process Bulletin. See:
http://www.henkelaero.com/Images/Dat...ne_120_kit.pdf

Mike
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:12 PM
Norman CYYJ Norman CYYJ is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Victoria B.C.
Posts: 1,265
Default

Use small plastic bags for most of the small parts and get some long narrow tube type bags for the long parts. Less chemical needed. Just like marinating a steak or some other piece of meat. Complete submersion is easy with the air taken out of the bag.
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2008, 04:07 AM
skyyking56 skyyking56 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Rockford Illinois
Posts: 113
Default Down Spout

I took a 4" x 6" x 10 foot down spout from Menards and sliced it down the middle of the wide dimension and crimped the edges so it wouldnt cut me then bent the height of the sides a little so it would be even a little wider...then I lay in the sheet of thick plastic the entire length and it has worked good except when you drain it out you have to do it very carefully not to spill...I dont think I had to put any more than about 1 1/2 gallon at any time to do the spars.
Hope this helps.
Jim 7A Tanks

Someone might want to add something else for a fuse part..I've only done up to wing parts
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2008, 07:29 PM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default soak paper towels

My old A&P used to soak a paper towel and lay it on a big sheet of aluminum. He then would put a new towel on another area. Darn it if didn't do a good job. Problem is you had to do it a few times to cover a big area.

Man was tighter than tree bark and but he liked the method because of less waste.

Last edited by Webb : 04-29-2008 at 07:29 PM. Reason: misspelling
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