Exhaust Installation Question

[avi8tor50]

Engine is mounted! Now looking to install the Vetterman exhaust system from Vans. My question is:
When I take the plastic covers off the cylinders to attach the exhaust pipes I know I'm going to get a bunch of oil come flying out (from the preservation).
Is this ok? That is, will this loss of oil/preservative adversely affect the preservation of the engine (probably won't be ready to start for another year)? Assuming that this is ok, once I attach the exhaust pipes the oil will then leak into the exhaust pipe system. Is this OK? Is this a problem when I first fire up the engine?

As always, any help is appreciated.

Peter K
9A and the engine is on!

[Mel]

You will get a little smoke at first start. That's all.

[flion]

I didn't get a rush of oil when I unpickled my new engine but, then again, I specifically told them I'd be immediately mounting it on the project. Also, I got the impression that it's the cylinders, not the heads, that get a massive amount of preservative. In any case, I asked a similar question and was told it would be a good idea to stuff some dry rags into the pipes, with the dessicant bags that were inside the crate to help stop moisture from taking that path into your engine. Same for other areas you may uncover: throttle body or ultimately the fab, breather, and so on. Don't forget to remove any blocking material before you start...

[jsharkey]

I'm leaving my engine buttoned up and pickled until the last possible minute. I plan to fit the exhaust and carburetor etc as few days before first start up as possible.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Getting there!

[Jim P]

Jim,

You're going to want to fit those pipes well in advance of firing it up. I suspect there's fitting to be done with engine controls, heat muffs, etc. FWIW, I didn't get much oil out of mine either. Pulling the sparkplug plugs is another matter.

Jim

[Mike S]

After you get the exhaust on, tape up the ends of the pipes, wouldn't hurt to add some desiccant packs to each pipe first.

Metal foil tape will work well, and last until you are ready to fire it up.

[flion]

Yeah, I was told that when working FWF, fit the things that can't be moved/altered first, and then fit the movables around them. So pipes, alternator, baffles, etc. have to be on so you know how to route cables and wires and such. That's why Superior suggested the rags in the pipes. Knowing how much pre-oiling we did as I built the engine and knowing that Superior ran the engine and then preserved it, I expect that it won't have any problems between now and startup. I'd be surprised if any of the other OEMs are different.

[DanH]

There isn't much oil in the cylinders, and it won't hurt the pipes.

Fit the pipes early in the process. Too many possible clearance issues to do it last-minute.

Plastic plugs in the ports mostly keep out bugs and loose change. They're unlikely to be air tight. Under them, some valves are open and other cylinders are "sealed", ie, valves closed and spark plugs in place. Snap a rubber glove over the ends of the exhaust pipes if it makes you feel better.

The best engine preservatives are stable temperature and low humidity.

[jsharkey]

Originally Posted by Jim P

Jim,

You're going to want to fit those pipes well in advance of firing it up. I suspect there's fitting to be done with engine controls, heat muffs, etc. FWIW, I didn't get much oil out of mine either. Pulling the sparkplug plugs is another matter.

Jim

Agreed - just wanted to get the cowl and baffling out of the way. These seemed to take ages. I'm hoping that the carb, cables and exhaust installation need less "fitting" and will go much quicker.

[carl nank]

You can take the plastic stops from the exhaust ports and they will fit
over the ends of the exhaust tubes.

You may be suprised how much time you will spend fitting everything to & under the engine. I am!!!!