PPG Evolution mix ratio

prkaye · #1 03-29-2008, 04:11 PM

the paint i'm using for my interior is PPG evolution, FDG (single stage polyurethane enamel). I forget exactly what ratio the guy said to mix the hardener... i think it was 2 parts paint to 1 part hardener.
I got the quick reference chart for this paint from the PPG website. It says for mix ratio for this paint 2:1:1/2 . I'm confused why there are three numbers in this ratio... I only have two things to mix. Should I do it 2:1 (paint:hardener) ??

Any particular tips with this paint? PSI setting for my HVLP gun (cheap gun hooked to my compressor), distance of nozzle from surface being painted etc?

N661DJ · #2 03-29-2008, 05:48 PM

Phil,
The mix ratio would be: 2 parts paint to 1 part catylist to 1/2 part reducer. As for the spray gun : HVLP's usually require around 10psi at the spray cap, this would probably require 45 psi at the handle unless the gun is set up to operate off a turbin. I would check with the mfg. to determine what your gun requires. Be sure to use a "Fresh Air" breathing mask.
Dick

prkaye · #3 03-29-2008, 06:26 PM

Ah.... reducer. The guys at the paint shop didn't say antying about reducer (and didn't sell me any). Perhaps this is why I have been getting an orange-peely texture on my practice pieces. For the interior I actually like this rough textured finish... is it acceptable not to use any reducer to achieve this?

N661DJ · #4 03-30-2008, 05:17 AM

Yes, you can spray the product without reducer, as you indicated, the results would be less than perfect. As for the distance from the surface to hold the gun, 10" to 12" is usually a good starting point. Again, several factors to consider. Air pressure, viscosity of paint, size of the "Fan", adjustable,. Painting is not rocket science and pratcise will improve results.
Dick

prkaye · #5 03-30-2008, 09:07 AM

Couple more questions about this paint:

1) What is the difference between a "high solids hardener" and a "medium solids hardener" ? The reason I ask is that on the info sheet for the FDG paint it lists the hardener as F3270 Medium solids. But the guy sold me F3260 high solids-fast. Is this OK, or should I go back and get him to exchange it?

2) Is "reducer" the same as "thinner" ? On the data sheet there are a whole bunch listed: "extra fast thinner", "fast thinner", "medium thinner" etc. What does the speed refer to, and which one do I want?

szicree · #6 03-30-2008, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N661DJ

Yes, you can spray the product without reducer, as you indicated, the results would be less than perfect. As for the distance from the surface to hold the gun, 10" to 12" is usually a good starting point. Again, several factors to consider. Air pressure, viscosity of paint, size of the "Fan", adjustable,. Painting is not rocket science and pratcise will improve results.
Dick

I would respectfully suggest that 12 inches is about twice as far as you should be. The paint gets broken up as it leaves the gun and will actually reform large droplets if you spray too far away from the surface. About 6-7 inches gives a nice controlled pattern with most guns.

szicree · #7 03-30-2008, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prkaye

Couple 2) Is "reducer" the same as "thinner" ? On the data sheet there are a whole bunch listed: "extra fast thinner", "fast thinner", "medium thinner" etc. What does the speed refer to, and which one do I want?

Thinner is the same as reducer. Usually, there are recommended temps for each speed of thinner. If it's cold out, you use the fast stuff and if it's hot, you use the slow to keep things form drying too quickly. Again, the instructions should have recommendations for different temps.

prkaye · #8 03-30-2008, 10:22 AM

Ok, that makes sense about the thinner... it's cool out so I'll get a faster one. What about teh high vs low solids in the hardener? what does this mean?

prkaye · #9 04-01-2008, 06:56 AM

Arg, I got the thinner and tried it with the paint, but I STILL can't seem to get a smooth finish. I always get a uniform distribution of small bumps. It looks either like there are all sorts of particles imbedded in the paint, or like it is being sprayed with a fine splatter. I've played around with the pressure, fan width, distance from surface, even now tried thinning the paint. Same result.
Is this mostly likely because:

a) I'm using a very inexpensive HVLP gun?
b) I'm using a "high solids hardener" instead of the "medium solids hardener" called-out for? (i still don't really know what this means, but the guy at the paint store said the one i am using is the one everbody uses for PPG Evolution FPG).
c) I got the guy to add a whole bunch of flattener to the paint (could flattener be causing these bumps??)

Help! I'm stuck... I don't know whether I want to go spend another $150 on a better HVLP gun, or another $40 on a different hardener, if it's not going to change the results. On the one hand i don't mind this textured finish for the interior, but on the other hand I don't like that i'm not able to control this.

Lycosaurus · #10 04-01-2008, 07:31 AM

Hi Phil,

Two things I can think of.

One is to clean your surface. If you have dust settling on your part, you may want to use a tack rag to pick up the tiny debris on the surface. They're sticky cheese cloth like rags with some sort of waxy feeling coating. It picks up stuff readily.

Also, I filter the paint before I place it in the hvlp gun (I have a cheap one too). They're paper funnel filters, and take out any tiny lumps that would not have mixed properly in your paint.

Give me a shout tonight, as I can let you have some tack cloth and filtering funnels.

Alfio