Tank Dimple Die Problem

[Lionclaw]

Another local builder let me borrow his tank dimple die, and showed me a problem he was having. I dimpled a few scrap pieces in order to get a picture.



You can see in the picture there is a gap between the stiffener and the scrap of about 1/16". Is this common? I can't imagine that we're supposed to fill the gap with proseal, are we?

[N916K]

This may sound silly, but did you dimple both pieces with the same set of dimple dies?. The two parts should fit together without any gaps, just like any other dimpled parts.

[Rick S.]

Somthings amiss there, should seat just like any other matching dies...the tank set is just a tad bigger (engineer term, T.A.D., thousandths and densum) to allow proseal to get in around the head...and let the flush portion remain "flush". I used them on my tanks...not sure if I would again but heck I have them now. Make sure the person who gave them to you didn't get them mixed up with his other #40 dies.

[N941WR]

What did you put the dies in?

If using a C-frame did he just whack it once really hard or did he do the tap-tap-tap method? If he squeezed them, it should be done with one swift motion and the dies should be adjusted so the dimpler handle closes completely.

Basic stuff but you never know...

[Lionclaw]

I don't believe the dies have been mixed up. They fit into each other very well, and both appear to be of the same make. A rivet dropped into the dimple sinks in so that the top of the head ends up about 0.025" below the skin.

I did the dimpling with the pneumatic squeezer. They were done quick, hard and straight. The other builder used his drdt2 with the same results. Both parts were done with the same set of dies.

My other dies are from Avery, and I haven't had any problems like this. At this point I'm wondering if they could be defective, or perhaps mis-matched by cleveland.

[Rick S.]

Just looked at the picture again...is that stiffener material completely flat or is the test strip bowed? Your clecos may not have the gusto to pull the pieces together. Try a test piece with with some different stock, say two 1" squares...see if you get the same result.

[Transporter]

Cleaveland dies are engraved with the part #; in this case it should read "CAT 426-3T" on both the male and female dies.

Cleaveland dies have a lifetime warranty and no restocking fee...if in doubt, call them.

Mike

[Rick S.]

Originally Posted by Transporter

Cleaveland dies are engraved with the part #; in this case it should read "CAT 426-3T" on both the male and female dies.

Cleaveland dies have a lifetime warranty and no restocking fee...if in doubt, call them.

Mike

And they put out some really well made dies along with other quality products. That's why I thought they may have mixed a standard with the tank set.

[Lionclaw]

I just went and did two more practice pieces. One was two ~1" squares and the other was another strip of stiffener with a piece of scrap. These came out slightly better, but I can still see light coming through between the two pieces.

I also checked the markings on the dies, CAT 426-3T on both.

At this point I'm wondering if it might be best to just use the regular dies.

Any other input you guys have is appreciated.

[Rick S.]

Well many hundreds of tanks have been built with the standard dies...I really couldn't see a difference between my tanks and fellow RV-10 builders who didn't use the dies...still...I'd call Mike at Cleaveland and see what he thinks...I really like those guys, if you can wait I'll bet they will send you a new set to see. They are over $30 a set...should get your money's worth, or your friends money's worth. Have you tried riveting them to see if the gap lessens/closes all together?

This is one of those times you wish you could walk over and take a look see and play with the all the stuff to see what's happening.