SafeAir1 pitot-static kit worth the price?

RV10Rob · #1 03-14-2008, 02:20 PM

Hi, all... from reading the archives, I've heard nothing but good things about SafeAir1 and their pitot-static kit, but $85 seems pricey compared to what Van's offers. Assuming I don't care about the look of the ports themselves, are there significant advantages to the SafeAir1 kit? I'm assuming the fittings are "better," but does it matter?

Thanks...

-Rob

AltonD · #2 03-14-2008, 02:28 PM

Mine hasn't flown yet, but I like the ease at which it went together.

alpinelakespilot2000 · #3 03-14-2008, 02:32 PM

If I did it again, I would probably just save my money and do it the tried and true Van's way. A number of people have reported airspeed errors with the SafeAir ports, but not everyone. That said, I'm so far happy with the Safeair Kit. I originally decided for it since I needed to buy their mount for my Dynon AOA pitot anyway.

N941WR · #4 03-14-2008, 02:37 PM

I would do it again but the trick is to surface mount the static ports like this.

PJSeipel · #5 03-14-2008, 02:41 PM

Having bought both, I'd go with the SafeAir1 over Van's because their stuff seems to be much higher quality. I agree with Bill, if you surface mount them they're much more likely to be accurate than if you try to make them flush.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032

Brantel · #6 03-14-2008, 02:53 PM

The earlier ones had less of a boss on them and thus did not stick out much past the side skin.

The new ones do stick much further out past the side skin. I just recieved mine last week I think and they look great.

I do not think people are having the same problem with the newer ones.

Safeair is a great company and the quality of the product is much higher than the Van's method.

Yes Van's method works but I just don't like the look of the install from the inside. Something about gobbing RTV around a tube stuck on the end of a pop rivet that just does not do it for me.

I will be drilling a hole and prosealing them to the inside. Looks very nice when completed both inside and out.

Steve Mills · #7 03-14-2008, 03:04 PM

I like the SafeAir1, because of the ease on installation.

Pirkka · #8 03-14-2008, 04:38 PM

Was it Gil who said in some thread to use STC Valve's 90 degree push-in fitting with Dynon. Anyway -- the STC valve has for sure all fittings SafeAir1 is offering for a significantly lower price and they offer quite variety of polyurethane tubing as well for pneumatic applications. Is this tubing suitable for pitot and static? $24/100ft ain't bad price for 1/4" OD tube if comparing to SafeAir1's offering...

What is the material of the SafeAir1's tube anyway? I haven't found any info from their pages...

Brantel · #9 03-14-2008, 05:09 PM

That STC site looks like a cheap carbon copy of all the genuine SMC products.

The stuff that SafeAir sells is made by SMC and is DOT approved for use as brake lines on large over the road transfer trucks.

I have used tons of the regular industrial SMC products and I can tell you that the quality of the stuff SafeAir sells is much better than the regular industrial stuff.

The design of the fittings is much better as well as they have a built in ferrule and great quality Oring.

The tube and fittings sold by SafeAir are made to compliment each other for the best seal and long life in harsh conditions.

rjcthree · #10 03-14-2008, 05:47 PM

Ok, I can answer this. I work for Bendix, the air brake system people. It's air brake tubing meeting SAE J944, generally nylon over teflon. Use it, it's great stuff. I do - I bought the kit.

Best hint I have is to consider pre-forming. Make your 90 deg bends under boiling water, hold them while they cool out of the water, and they should hold the bend. You can get really nice shapes that way.

The fittings supplied are from SMC, and while they are not my favorite, (I would not use them outside the cab of a heavy truck, for sure) they are good. The weak link in all PTC fittings are the orings anyway - so listen closely: Cut off the tube ends squarely. Not kinda, not about but SQUARE with a SHARP blade. Not scissors, dykes, or some ratty old pruning shears you've got laying around. Make sure the edge left is clean, lube the end a bit (general purpose biolube is fine = yes, a little saliva) push it in firmly, then give it a tug to set. If you have to disassemble, push in on the collar firmly and pull the tube back out. Reusable. Good practice to cut a fresh end, though.

Rick 90432