Tip: Baffle backtrack

[Steve]

Cautionary note:
Temporarily install the oil dipstick tube before installing the heat muff scat tube adapter fitting to the RH aft baffle wall.
The flange on my scat tube adapter was too large fit on the angled face on the RH baffle wall so I located my scat flange high up on the vertical wall. Shoulda mounted it as low as possible on that vertical wall to clear the dipstick tube.

Steve

[Frank Smidler]

I did the same thing in January. I removed it and covered the hole with a square of aluminum. I then bent the edge of the mounting plate slightly to overlap the bottom vertical of the rear baffel and remounted it to the diagonal face. I also took the advise of Danny King and drilled the hole in the aft baffel at 1" instead of 2" (the size of the scat tube) so that the air flow is slow enough through the baffel to pick-up engough heat. In the end, it still looks good and any one who see's the patch (only when the cowl is off) will assume it suppose to be there.

[Steve]

I relocated the hole about 2" lower. I used the old bottom rivet holes as the new top holes. I covered the old hole with an AL plate. I also reduced the size of the scat tube opening but only to 1.5". Apply a bit of Rustolem Hammerite paint and it all looks good. The oil dipstick tube and the scat hose can now co-exist peacefully.
The angled wall on my left rear baffle is wider on the engine end than on the outboard end. The scat tube fitting fits best (no overhang) when it is located almost next to the engine. That, of course, won't work.

On to the air box,
Steve