hole size needed for firewall eyeball pass-through

alpinelakespilot2000 · #1 02-28-2008, 05:53 PM

Can anyone tell me what size hole in the firewall is needed to use this aluminum one-hole eyeball assembly from ACS?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...yeballassy.php

I've already ordered the wrong item once today.

I don't feel the need to do it again. Thanks.

lostpilot28 · #2 02-28-2008, 05:57 PM

Hey Steve,
On the other thread where we discussed the cable-safe products...they use the hole size that's called out in the plans. I think it's 5/8"...not sure without looking...but it's whatever was on the drawings.

Of course, this is assuming you're using the Cable-Safe II's and not the eyeballs...sorry if this means I hijacked this thread. Doh!

Greg Arehart · #3 02-28-2008, 06:04 PM

Steve,

I think one of these was just delivered to my house today, so when I get home (7:30 pm Pacific) I will measure and let you know.

greg

alpinelakespilot2000 · #4 02-28-2008, 06:21 PM

I think I just found on Dan C.'s site that the holes have to be 1-1/8". That pretty much seals the deal for me. I'll have to go with the Cable Safe 2's because the Van's locations, which I've already drilled for the Cable Safe's, are too close to allow for 1-1/8" holes. The Cable Safe's require 9/16" holes according to the ACS catalog. That's what I've drilled so far.

Thanks again for helping me, guys.

Jekyll · #5 02-28-2008, 09:01 PM

Steve:

The hole is 1.115 inch which is the exact size of a 3/4 in conduit Greenlee punch makes. Buy a conduit punch from Home Depot, Lowes, Ace. I'm not a electrical contractor so I can only assume a 3/4 conduit punch is titled after the inside diameter of the conduit not the outside.
Wanna buy mine, I'm done with it?

Jekyll

alpinelakespilot2000 · #6 02-28-2008, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jekyll

Steve:

The hole is 1.115 inch which is the exact size of a 3/4 in conduit Greenlee punch makes. Buy a conduit punch from Home Depot, Lowes, Ace. I'm not a electrical contractor so I can only assume a 3/4 conduit punch is titled after the inside diameter of the conduit not the outside.
Wanna buy mine, I'm done with it?

Jekyll

Thanks for the offer, Jekyll. I would take you up on it if I hadn't already started drilling the holes. Originally I was going to follow Van's method which is simply a snap bushing. It required a hole close to 9/16". Unfortunately, that leaves me with too big of a pilot hole for the Greenlee. I also think I won't have enough room between the holes (for big 1-1/8" holes that those big swivel eyeballs require), since Van's really crams the 3 control cables together on the carbed version. I bet if you want to get rid of it you could pretty easily though. I've heard those punches are pretty nice for the times when you do really need them.

mike109g6 · #7 02-28-2008, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

Thanks for the offer, Jekyll. I would take you up on it if I hadn't already started drilling the holes. Originally I was going to follow Van's method which is simply a snap bushing. It required a hole close to 9/16". Unfortunately, that leaves me with too big of a pilot hole for the Greenlee. I also think I won't have enough room between the holes (for big 1-1/8" holes that those big swivel eyeballs require), since Van's really crams the 3 control cables together on the carbed version. I bet if you want to get rid of it you could pretty easily though. I've heard those punches are pretty nice for the times when you do really need them.

If you already have a hole too large why not use the SS shields supplied by Van's and ACS. You can then still use the cable safe's or just use a bushing like Van's uses. Fill it in with heat treat. I used a combination of SS shields/bushings for electrical and the cable safe's for the bowden cables.
Mike H 9A/8A

Mike S · #8 02-29-2008, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

Thanks for the offer, Jekyll. I would take you up on it if I hadn't already started drilling the holes. Originally I was going to follow Van's method which is simply a snap bushing. It required a hole close to 9/16". Unfortunately, that leaves me with too big of a pilot hole for the Greenlee. I also think I won't have enough room between the holes (for big 1-1/8" holes that those big swivel eyeballs require), since Van's really crams the 3 control cables together on the carbed version. I bet if you want to get rid of it you could pretty easily though. I've heard those punches are pretty nice for the times when you do really need them.

Steve, one of the nice things about a Greenlee style punch is that you can enlargen an existing hole, without having to remain concentric with the first hole-----you can "cheat" to the side if you need to.

You may in fact be able to fit the holes into the pattern you have already started. Try doing a layout on paper.

Good luck.

alpinelakespilot2000 · #9 02-29-2008, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike109g6

If you already have a hole too large why not use the SS shields supplied by Van's and ACS. You can then still use the cable safe's or just use a bushing like Van's uses. Fill it in with heat treat. I used a combination of SS shields/bushings for electrical and the cable safe's for the bowden cables.
Mike H 9A/8A

Thanks. I did order the Cable Safe II's for the engine controls this morning. I also had already ordered the SS shields from ACS for the wiring. I'm still trying to figure out how to ensure that the wire doesn't rub on the stainless steel shield. I'm assuming I just have to drill the hole in the shield big enough and make sure that the wires can't bend and contact the shield. I'm also looking at the SafeAir1 pass throughs if it's OK to put both of my Dynon 180 engine monitor harnesses through one hole.