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  #1  
Old 02-27-2008, 02:39 PM
Rockyjs Rockyjs is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 408
Default Cabin Heat on Superior Horizontal Induction

I have a Superior horizontal induction engine and a new Vans BAF 360 kit. This kit uses the aft baffle behind #3 for the air supply to the heat muff. I have a Vetterman exhaust which fits the engine just fine, but am having a hard time fitting the heat muff. The muff I have is for a front right ramp air source and fastens around #1. The only way I've managed to get the scat tubes hooked up, has the input air scat laying on the #3 exhaust. I already discussed this with Rick Robbins and am trying to figure out a solution. I'm going to need a new muff, but I'm not sure what it needs to look like. Does anybody have a good install on this engine/baffle combination? I really would like to keep the air source on the aft baffle.








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Rocky McKiernan
Navarre, FL
N767JM RV-7 Flying
N1011D (res) RV-10 Building
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2008, 08:34 PM
Brambo Brambo is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder City
Posts: 179
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In this install the inlet air should come from the front right inlet (in front of the #1 cylinder). Van's plans say behind the #3 as you have, but with a Vetterman exhaust you should come from in front of the #1 cylinder. Just seal-off the hole behind #3 and make your own in front of #1. At least that's the way I understand it.

Bill Rambo
RV-7A
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2008, 08:46 PM
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Jim P Jim P is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 934
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Appears we have the same heat muff and this is how I ran this ( I know, I'm missing a clamp). Adding a picture to Bill's comments in the second response, you probably need to come off the right inlet ramp instead of behind #3.

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  #4  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:36 AM
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andrew phillips andrew phillips is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Carp, Ont
Posts: 347
Default I did it differently

I also used the hole in the right front baffle floor for the intake but then ran the scat tub on top of the intake pipes next to the crankcase. It is in contact with the intakes but not the exhausts. Basically it runs where the firesleeved hose is in the previous post's picture. I also didn't like the idea of the intake at the back baffle for possible carbon monoxide infiltration. I know it's not likely but at the front you are getting fresh air.
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2008, 08:51 PM
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SkywayCaptain SkywayCaptain is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sheridan, IN
Posts: 94
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Van's has another generic heat muff that I used on my Superior (forward induction, all metal sump, RV7) This muff has both intake and exhaust on the same side. This worked OK for me and my intake air comes from the aft baffle, but I am using the Lycoming version of the Vetterman exhaust, which is a little tighter. Will try to find a picture to post.
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2008, 09:58 PM
Rockyjs Rockyjs is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 408
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Thanks for the replies. I believe I have a solution, but I need to put the lower cowl back on to check for clearance issues. The outlet on my muff is about 180 degrees out from Jim's. I originally had the scat tube inside the induction tubes as Andrew has. If I orient the muff to use front ramp air, my outlet interferes with the #1 induction tube. I believe I have the wrong muff, but Rick Robbins said he could make whatever I needed. He was very surprised that Vans new baffle kit has the hole pre-punched in the aft baffle. Rick also said that he recommends 1 1/2" scat to increase efficiency. I believe I have the clearance to run the supply air outside the cylinders and by using a reverse angle on the outlet I'll be able to connect the outlet to the scat through the induction tubes to the cabin heat valve. Rick didn't seem to think that a reverse angle would impact anything.




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  #7  
Old 02-29-2008, 12:24 AM
ao.frog ao.frog is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Manstad, Norway
Posts: 866
Default Cyl 1 here

Hi.

I've a Superior IO-360 with Vetterman exhaust.

I used the tube from cyl 1, but since I live in the cold Norway, I wanted two muffs.

I've found no place for the second muff, so I mounted two of Vans muffs together.

Since the new muff is heavier than just one, I put an extra clamp below the end of the muff to prevent it from sliding down towards the throttle lever on the injector.
(you can just see the orginal clamp and the extra one on the lower side of the muff)
The throttlearm itself is partly hidden behind the brown fuel line.

I was thinking that a muff which slides down the tube and eventually preventing the throttle arm from moving could ruin my day....


This won't equal two muffs, but at least the lenght of the new muff is approx 1/3 longer now.

Also, I was able to turn the inlet and outlets the direction they provided the most easy routing for the tubing.

I haven't tried this yet since I'm still a few months away from first start, but I'm hoping it'll provide more heat than just one muff...


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Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
First RV-7 completed, (bought partly finished from a US-builder) 305 hrs per July 2014, SOLD
Second -7 had first flight Feb 25th 2014. 220 hrs pr July 2019. Life is good!

Last edited by ao.frog : 02-29-2008 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Larger pic
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