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View Poll Results: Drill it out and try again, or build on?
Try Again 68 71.58%
Build On 27 28.42%
Voters: 95. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 02-23-2008, 01:08 PM
TomAniello TomAniello is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Firestone, CO
Posts: 14
Default Yeah, it's Ugly....But is it OK?

I have to admit that I just hate to drill out rivets. As a newbie who really likes using the pneumatic rivet squeezer, every once in a while I do need to pull out the gun and a bucking bar. No problem with flush rivets, but my universal rivet technique still leaves something to be desired.

Question for the forum: Should I drill these out and try again, or build on? Thanks for the straight advice.



Last edited by TomAniello : 02-23-2008 at 01:14 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2008, 02:10 PM
B737NG B737NG is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 64
Default

During my pre-cover inspection I was written up for 2 rivets in the wing like the ones in your picture. I sent a picture of the rivets to Vans.

This was their response:

EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated 1984.
?The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape,
inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the shank (not ?clinched?) and whether there is excessive
cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength,
fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked) rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well
formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile strengths of all the rivets were within five per cent of the
strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or
replacement. The second rivet that is driven in any one hole likely to be more defective than the first because the hole is enlarged
and rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head.


I did not replace my two rivets - Feel free to make your own decision.

Paul
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2008, 03:10 PM
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kevinh kevinh is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,419
Default

You mentioned you are new - If you do decide to drill out:

* Use an automatic punch in the hole on the head
* Use a #32 drill bit
* When you put your #30 punch in the hole, you can pop the shop head off easily

No expanded holes that way
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2008, 03:21 PM
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AntiGravity AntiGravity is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
Posts: 632
Default Drilling out rivets

Well, I have to say, I've become a bit of a master at drilling out rivets. The technique I use is to get a good center (automatic punch or whatever, then drill straight through with a #40 or smaller drill. This seems to relieve the pressure on the sides of the rivet gripping the hole. Then I drill down with a #30 or slightly smaller just enough to enable me to pop the head off using a 1/8" punch. Then back the rivet up with a block of wood, socket, whatever (I prefer wood; less damage and marring to the structure) and punch it out using the 1/8" punch. I've found that although it takes longer to double-drill, it is easier to punch the rivet out and I rarely screw up the hole this way. Also, if the smaller 'thru'-hole is slightly off center you run less risk of ovalling the hole and causing a bigger problem. While this method serves *me* well; ymmv, use this method at your own risk.
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2008, 04:54 PM
rfinch rfinch is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 157
Default

See this thread with a similar question. I would think you do not need to drill it out unless you are confident you can do so without enlarging the hole.
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2008, 05:53 PM
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Jeff R Jeff R is offline
 
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Location: Merritt Island, FL
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If you are concerned about what other people who might see the rivet will think about your work more than the actual strength of the joint, then drill it out. I think a lot of people want their work to appear to be near perfect, so they will drill out a rivet that is structurally sound, failing to realize their their more-perfect looking replacement is actually weaker. Not that the replacement, prettier rivet, though weaker, will not still be strurturelly sound, too.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:28 PM
mike647m mike647m is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 86
Default

Try putting a piece of masking tape on the universal head before riveting.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2008, 07:56 PM
Hal-san Hal-san is offline
 
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Location: Benton City, WA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike647m View Post
Try putting a piece of masking tape on the universal head before riveting.
Yep Mike, that works for me. I saw it on the show "How its Made" when they were showing the building of an aircraft.
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2008, 08:09 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Question Another Question...

...to ask yourself....

Would you fly on a Boeing if it's rivets looked like that?

gil A
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2008, 09:24 PM
lorne green lorne green is offline
 
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Location: Oliver, B.C. Canada (Okanagan valley)
Posts: 786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
...to ask yourself....

Would you fly on a Boeing if it's rivets looked like that?

gil A
Well, I agree with Gill's comment. By the way, you WILL get very good at drilling out errant rivets. So take 3 minutes, get a fresh #30 drill bit, drill it out, punch it out and re-rivet. It really doesn't look that bad...but it could be better. You posted this for some constructive comments. Sounds like you weren't comfortable with this rivet. Well, is one rivet going to cause you to fall from the sky? No, no it won't. But I think it will give you piece of mind knowing that you did it right. We take on a lot when we commit to a project of this magnitude. It's one rivet then another then...the extra effort is worth it!
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