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02-08-2008, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Cable-safe from ACS
Has anyone used the cable-safe bulkhead pass-through for their throttle/mixture etc. cables? Seems like a good idea to me but wanted to see if there is any experience out there.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../cablesafe.php
thanks,
greg
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Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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02-08-2008, 11:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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I used it for my carb heat and alternate air. They seem fine. I used eyeballs on the throttle and mixture since they passed through at an angle.
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Steve Zicree
Fullerton, Ca. w/beautiful 2.5 year old son 
RV-4 99% built  and sold 
Rag and tube project well under way
paid =VAF= dues through June 2013
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02-09-2008, 04:58 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shallotte NC
Posts: 594
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cable safe
I used these on all of my cable pass thrus, and they worked well. A bit of a pain to get the split type assembled over the throttle and mixture cables, but worth the effort. They provide a clean and secure clamp of the sheath, and are easy to seal to the bulkhead. All in all, I will use them again. Google up the Cable Safe 2 as well. I think that is the split one you will need for the throttle and mix.
Best to ya...Chris
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Chris Schmitt
Shallotte, NC
RV9A 90970 N614RV
Sold to nice folks in Texas and badly missed.
RV9 in progress
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02-28-2008, 05:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carguy614
I used these on all of my cable pass thrus, and they worked well. A bit of a pain to get the split type assembled over the throttle and mixture cables, but worth the effort. They provide a clean and secure clamp of the sheath, and are easy to seal to the bulkhead. All in all, I will use them again. Google up the Cable Safe 2 as well. I think that is the split one you will need for the throttle and mix.
Best to ya...Chris
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I mistakenly purchased the Cable Safe "1" rather than the Cable Safe 2 and, of course, I can't find anyway at all to get them over the pre-fabbed mixture and throttle cables. Can you describe, Chris, what you did have to do get the Cable Safe 2 over the throttle and mixture cables. Are they actually split lengthwise? It's hard to tell from the description at ACS...
Also, is the 1/4" size sufficient for the throttle and mixture cables? (Both seem to measure about ..26" in diameter.)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...cablesafe2.php
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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02-28-2008, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,095
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Hi Steve,
I just went through this...I ordered two of the Cable Safe II's and one of the original "non-split" type (for carb heat). The II's are split lengthwise, but you still need to remove everything off of one end of your throttle cable to get the washer and 2 nuts to slide up. I went through a couple iterations of figuring out how to make it work before I figured it out (no instructions).
Basically, the washer and regular nut are on the same side of the firewall as the "clamping nut". Whatever side that is for you, you need to remove all the hardware off the cable. The other side you can just get the 2 halves to fit over the cable and slip it through the hole in the firewall.
The hard part is reaching both sides of the firewall at the same time to tighten the nut down.
One of my holes was drilled per the plans and has a "notch" drilled into the fuel pump mounting plate. Of course the cable-safe nut will not sit flush without some kind of plate to keep it parallel to the firewall...I need to make something for that...then find someone to help me tighten it down. 
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Sonny W
Boise, Idaho
RV-7A Flying!
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02-28-2008, 06:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Steve,
I also noted that I had to ream out the compression nut just slightly to get it over the ends of the standard throttle/mixture cables. I also made a couple of wedges with holes in them for either side of the firewall so that the cable could pass through at an angle rather than at 90 degrees to the firewall (that worked for my setup by making the cable straighter rather than having to do an S through the firewall).
greg
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Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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02-28-2008, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Thanks Sonny and Greg-
As you can probably tell from my other post, I'm desperate to decide on what to use and get it ordered tonight.
What size Cable Safe 2 did you use? The 1/4" or the 3/8"?
Sonny- I too had to work with the fuel pump doubler. Rather than remove and scallop the original doubler, all I did was butt another piece (about 1"x2") adjacent to the f.p. doubler where Van's calls for the hole to be drilled for the cable. I attached the little extra doubler piece with four rivets. My cable safe hole now straddles the original f.p. and new doubler. If it would help I can send a pic.
Thanks again for the help.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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02-28-2008, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,095
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Hi Steve,
I know exactly what you're talking about with your plate...my only problem is that I have my engine hung and I'm not going to remove it. So getting in there with a drill & rivet gun is unlikely. I think I may just "proseal" a doubler plate to the other half of the hole and call it good...it's only a shim at that point, anyway.
The size of Cable-Safe that I bought is 3/8". I'm using a throttle quadrant that's attached below the center of the inst. panel. The cables for the quadrant look to be the same size as the ones I had for the vernier cables I sent back to Vans.
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Sonny W
Boise, Idaho
RV-7A Flying!
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02-28-2008, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Steve,
My eyeball didn't arrive after all so I can't help there.
I used the 3/8 cable-safe II - I don't think the Cable-safe I will be big enough for throttle or mixture (Vans green) cables. Even the II needs a bit of trimming as I noted. Diameter of the hole is 5/8 inches.
You might consider cutting a small piece of Al as thick as the doubler, then rivet a relatively thin piece of Al onto that small piece with enough hanging off the edge to overlap the existing doubler. Then you could hold the assembled piece in place next to the doubler and drill the hole through the thin piece so that half of the hole is in the doubler and the other half is in your doubler-matching piece. The thin piece would then keep the doubler extension in place and once the cable-safe is tightened down, you would have a sandwich of firewall - doubler/doubler extension - thin Al backing plate which should be sufficient to handle the stress. This would eliminate the need to proseal. Hope this explanation was clear enough. If you would like me to sketch it, let me know and I will try to post something.
greg
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Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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02-28-2008, 08:59 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Well, tried editing this twice but didn't take.
After reading your post again, I went out and drilled two holes and my cable safe II does not fit the 9/16 but fits the 5/8 just fine. Obviously you might want to wait to enlarge your hole since its easier to enlarge than to shrink....
greg
__________________
Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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