cleaning primed metal for paint

[prkaye]

Well, after much deliberation and research, and after trying out a couple of rattle-can products, I've decided to paint my interior the way a real painter would do it - with a 2-part paint (the hardener comes in a seperate container) and an HVLP gun. I got a quite inexpensive gun, and the paint is a PPG paint. I'm going with flat grey because it'll be easier to play fighter-pilot .
My first problem in trying to find a rattle-can product was that most of these seemed to have a glossy finish, and I want a real flat finish inside the cockpit. The guys at a local paint shop (really helpful guys) also said that rattle-can paint would not be nearly as durable. So they talked me into the PPG paint which apparently is the same stuff that is used on firetrucks.
So, I'll be doing this soon. I'm going to be shooting the paint on top of a self-etching primer (rattle-can) that I've been using (the paint guys said this would work fine). Some of my parts have were primed before installation though, so I'm wondering what's the best way to clean these up before I apply paint? For some I want to very lightly scotchbright them to get a smoother surface (the primer is rough to the touch on some parts). Should I use water, or soapy water, or just a dry cloth to clean the previously primed parts before shooting paint?
Any other tips for a first-time painter?

[grover]

I've had the same tasks you describe- - after scotch-briting (new word), I run a laquer thinner dampened cloth over the area. just enough to clean up the dust, etc. then shoot.

[Tbone]

If your painting removable parts I would sand with 400 or 600 wet or dry on the rough textured items. I like to use a small amount of soap when I wet sand. It will float the sludge off a little better. If they are fixed scotch-brite with grey or sandpaper. Be very careful prepping with lac. thinner. It will "melt" most rattle can anything. I use Dupont 3909 for all my pre-paint work. (I do it professionally for the last 25 years). PPG makes a prep-solvent also for their products. I believe that some people on this forum has used rubbing alcohol also but not sure how it works as a oil and contaminate remover. Hope this helps and good luck!

[Tbone]

I can also give you some great tips on how to set up your spraygun if you need them.

[prkaye]

I can also give you some great tips on how to set up your spraygun if you need them

Sure! Any tips would be really apprecaited!

[JonJay]

Rough up with scotch bright as you described and then use a good Degreaser/Wax Remover, like PrepAll, or PPG equivalent. It is much less agressive than other solvents and is designed specifically for the purpose. Run a tack cloth over it after if you want to get rid of the occasional dust or fabric spec from your rag.

For best adhesion, rough up and then reprime before top coating. ( I did not do this but still had decent results.)

I do not believe PPG two part products are available in a "flat" finish. They make a flattening agent you add to the paint and a clear top coat that also flattens. The flattening agent takes some experimentation. It will make the paint more pourous, less durable, and a bit harder to clean.

There are some paint experts that cruise these posts, of which I am not, but I had good results with above.

[prkaye]

I do not believe PPG two part products are available in a "flat" finish

Hmmm... what they sold me they claimed is flat. When I get home I'll look at the exact name of hte product and post it.

[Tbone]

As JonJay stated, PPG and most other suppliers do not have a dedicated paint that is "ready-to-apply" for a flat finish that I am aware of. My suppliers have an additive that you mix with the product to get your level of "sheen". Only bad thing about that is trying to do a repair down the road it is hard to match the level of flatness. As far as the gun setup, here is what my friend, and owner, of a reputable a/m paint manufacturer recommendations on gun setup is. And it works flawlessly. His name is Barry and if you call him, tell him Terry in Ackerman, MS sent you. His web address is SouthernPolyurethanes.com. You can go on his site and find what you are looking for.

[prkaye]

Actually, i think I remember him saying something about a "flattener". He must have mixed that in when he mixed the colour. I'm going to test-shoot a scrap piece of aluminum tonight to see how it looks.

[Mel]

Another thing to remember when using a flattener is that the hardener will bring back some gloss. So you have to start out flatter than you want.