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  #1  
Old 02-04-2008, 07:41 PM
RVG8tor's Avatar
RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
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Default Am I over bent?

I bent the rudder today, I used the brake to get it close but it was still sitting a little too open so I went along with the seamer which seemed to work out well, I also had a 1/8" dowel inside as I bent and crimped. I clecoed the rudder skin onto the frame which fit nicely, I did have to open the skin up a bit. I then measured to see how the bend went.

On one side the top is a little sucked in as well as the bottom, the middle is nice and flat. Other other side is just slightly sucked in about the same from top to bottom. The first photo shows the area that is the worst. The other two show both L/R trailing edge at the bottom. It is obviously not symmetrical. One side nice and the other a little torked!

So is the rudder usable, is there a fix? I suspect I over bent or the 1/8 dowel was too small a radius. When I sight down the trailing edge it all looks nice and straight, also shows the same when I lay a 2' level along the trailing edge, I can't find my 4' level. Should I try to flex the rudder open a bit or just leave well enough along. If this is usable what can I expect in flight, if you know? Thanks in advance for any help.



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Last edited by RVG8tor : 02-04-2008 at 07:43 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2008, 07:55 PM
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L.Adamson L.Adamson is offline
 
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Location: KSLC
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Default

A -- you can do nothing

B-- I wasn't totally happy with mine, and pushed a piece of music wire with a rounded end (metal rod) thru mine. It might have been 3/16", but far too long ago to remember exactly. Yet, it did give a nice even shape.

L.Adamson -- RV6A
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2008, 11:03 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Question The Rib.........

Looks to me like, if the very end of that rib were not as fat you would not have that rounded trailing edge between it and the end of the rib.

If done carefully the profile could be changed slightly by doing something like fluting it lengthwise fi an inc or two (not easy to do.)

If you have already riveted it would be hard to fix it.

I am doing a 6 and I used a 5/32 or maybe a 3/16" hinge pin to help form the trailing edge, it was stiffer and straighter and not compressible. I was able to really put a squeeze on it.

The deformity your rudder has, may affect the surfaces crispness in response, but you may or may not notice it.

Most of building is fun, but some is frustrating. I had to build 3 ailerons to get two good ones, you are not alone.
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Last edited by GAHco : 02-05-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2008, 11:16 AM
jmartinez443 jmartinez443 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Winter Springs, FL
Posts: 249
Default

BTW, a 1/8" rod is two small as that would give you a 1/16" radius. You need a 1/4" rod to get the right radius on these surfaces. Here's how I did mine: http://www.rv8alog.com/empennage/rudder/r4.htm.

Also, not sure if you did this but, you will want to rivet the stiffeners on before you bend the skin. After you bend it, you will not be able to get your rivet gun in for the rearmost rivets. Again, more info here: http://www.rv8alog.com/empennage/rudder/r3.htm
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Last edited by jmartinez443 : 02-05-2008 at 11:23 AM.
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