h/s which side is up ?

[fdarby]

This may take the prize. I was finished with all the internal riveting on the horizontal stab for my RV-8a and was about to squeeze the perimeter when I felt one rivet head on the nose rib that I was not happy with. I put the bucking bar back in and gave it a shot. The corner of the bar hit the inside of the skin and made a small dent in the surface of the skin. It, of corse, is on the side that I designated as up. The unit looks simetrical to me so the question is can I turn the horizontal stabilizer over putting the small ding on what then would be the bottom? Thanks, Frank

[Rick6a]

Originally Posted by fdarby

This may take the prize......Frank

Frank,

We'll see. I may want to challenge you for that prize. On my match hole RV8 horizontal stab, the only essential difference between up and down is the center spice plates on the main spar. The lower splice is shaped much different and will be drilled out later to tie in with the fuselage. The reason I would challenge you for the prize is because when I riveted the skins in place and after about 75% of the riveting was completed, I discovered that I inadvertently installed the right hand skin on the left side and left hand skin on the right side. All the matched holes lined up so precisely that I had no clue to what I had done. Not one, I repeat...not one single hole had to enlarged or even "wallowed out" to accept its rivet. BTW, I originally "double dimpled" one of the rivet holes on the upper surface of the right skin...almost a rite of passage when building an RV and as luck would have it...that double dimpled hole is now hidden from view in its new home.... the lower skin surface on the left side.

[Guy Prevost]

It's not symmetric. Look at the two angles (HS-810 and 811 if memory serves) on the front face of the forward spar. Only one of these will allow you to bolt the HS to the fuselage.

[Sam Buchanan]

Originally Posted by fdarby

This may take the prize. I was finished with all the internal riveting on the horizontal stab for my RV-8a and was about to squeeze the perimeter when I felt one rivet head on the nose rib that I was not happy with. I put the bucking bar back in and gave it a shot. The corner of the bar hit the inside of the skin and made a small dent in the surface of the skin. It, of corse, is on the side that I designated as up. The unit looks simetrical to me so the question is can I turn the horizontal stabilizer over putting the small ding on what then would be the bottom? Thanks, Frank

Even if you can't "flip" the HS, the dent is a non-issue (except to your pride!). When you are ready to paint the plane (don't be surprised if this is not the only blemish), the uh-oh can be "redented" so it is a slight depression. The dent can be repaired with filler and will be undetectable under the paint.

Build on!

[fdarby]

Thanks fellows for the prompt reply. I knew the angles were different but was hoping it would not make a difference ( I should have known better). I will see if an auto body shop can rub it out.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by fdarby

Thanks fellows for the prompt reply. I knew the angles were different but was hoping it would not make a difference ( I should have known better). I will see if an auto body shop can rub it out.

Don't let it get anywhere near an auto body shop unless an A&P mechanic is working there.

I would leave it for now.

Later when you are nearly ready to mount it on the fuselage you have built you can take care of it (and maybe some other little dents that have popped up along the way.

A typical way of fixing this type of blemish is to change it from an outy (dent pushed outward) to an inny. This can often be done with the same corner of the same bucking bar that caused it in the first place using pressure from your hand. Never start pounding with hammers, etc. this just stretches/thins the metal and makes things look worse. Once the dent has been made an Inny, a small amount of bondo type filler on a single edge razor blade can be wiped over the small dent (after the surface is properly prep-ed) to leave a flat surface and it will disappear once you paint it.

Don't worry about it too much...It's going to happen. Especially when you are working solo.