Any tips for building the side-by-side tip-up canopy?

Davepar · #1 07-26-2005, 09:05 AM

I'm about ankle-deep in building the tip-up canopy for my -7A and want to hear any good tips people have.

This is what I've found so far by reading Dan's and other sites:

the splice plate at the back of the side channels shouldn't be drilled until the bubble is fitted to the rear frame.
leave a gap at the front of the canopy skin otherwise it will catch on the forward top skin when opening the canopy.
don't leave masking tape on the canopy long term or it will leave a residue

Thanks,
Dave

kellyp · #2 07-26-2005, 09:29 AM

I would add to glue the canopy on with Sika 295. My tip-up canopy has not one single hole drilled in it. Follow the directions and use black electrical tape to define the glue edge on the plexi. Finish the glue with your finger like caulking. Work quickly or the glue will 'skin' and get tacky. Lower temps help.

Not many builders have pictures of the process since it is almost like proseal to work with and you don't have time to whip off the gloves and take pictures.

Also - forget the slot in the side skin for the canopy to fit into. Just open it up and patch later with glue or epoxy.

Spend a lot of time getting the side frame to fit the longeron contour. You will likely want to side skirt to overlap this gap, and it should fit close to look good. Plan a 1/8"-1/4" gap for your canopy seal between the frame and longeron deck.

Good luck and have patience.

RV_7A · #3 07-26-2005, 01:23 PM

I have only have this to recommend as it is specifically related to the hinge block drilling.

http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-01-12.htm

http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-02-08.htm

-Jeff

dan · #4 07-26-2005, 04:17 PM

Jeff,

I hadn't seen it done that way before, but it makes perfect sense. Great way to ensure you've got symmetrical & sufficient edge distance around the pivot bushing. Thanks for the heads-up on that technique...will probably do it your way next time.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com

Scott Will · #5 07-26-2005, 05:53 PM

When you are ready to drill it to the frame, make sure you have the entire thing secured in position, especially the front. That's my tip and I'm sticking to it.

I'm going with the screws and adhesive method. Although, I'll probably use scotchweld 2216 B/A on the sides (screws, too, to make it match like everyone elses) and screws only on the curved portion.

Jeff - like your tip about drilling the hinge & blocks. I went thru several blocks to get mine just right. I should have just done what you did all along. Van's should change the instructions.