Hello!!!

[wzenheimer]

Hey all and hello from a new forum member and soon to be builder!!

I have been lurking around here for several months and have read tons of very useful information. I have had my preview plans for a RV-7 for well over a year and have reviewed them thoroughly. Recently, I have been acquiring tools and setting up my shop for building. So far I have built 2, EAA1000 benches and acquired a 9? band saw, drill press, bench grinder, and belt sander among various other typical tools. I plan to build the RV in my basement (ranch house unfinished basement on a walkout) for the comforts of AC/heat. Additionally, I work for a corporate flight department at KSUS (Spirit of St. Louis) that has a very large assortment of tools that we are allowed to use. Tools such as a large sheet metal sheer, bending brake, various hand tools, powder coat system/oven, and about 3 IA?s and 10+ A&Ps some who have volunteered to at least LOOK at the project.

However, as you might guess I have a couple of specific questions regarding the build process.

1. Regarding tools, I was curious if a 19? reach C-frame dimpling fixture has enough reach for RV skins? (I only ask because I can get it basically free.) I am sure over time I will eventually obtain a DRDT-2. Also, what would be the best yoke to obtain for a pneumatic squeezer, as in what type, reach, and gap for RVs?

2. Given the fact I can obtain some help via some co-workers how worthy is it to take a builders basic construction class such as the ones taught by Grov-Air or synergy? I am pretty mechanically inclined, and learn skills very quickly and plan on building a RV training project and toolbox kit. I would really rather take that money and apply it towards tools or RV kit parts.

Thanks in advance for any and all information. I look forward to making new friends and acquaintances.

Regards,
Chris

[RV7Factory]

Hi Chris,

Welcome and congratulations on taking your first steps.

About your questions...

1. A 19" c-frame will probably get you by for the tail, but I know there have been times, most recently with the fuselage bottom skin, where I have needed all of the 22" reach the DRDT-2 provides.

2. Personally, I think money spent building your skills is money well spent. Perhaps a 2-day Sportair RV or Sheet Metal workshop would be a good choice if you didn't want to spend the money for a week long course. Just a thought.

Good luck!

[docrick]

I ordered my tools from Isham and they are awesome except the dang DRDT-2 is on backorder but it is supposed to arrive by this Friday! Yeah I can finally dimple the skins of the HS and VS.

I don't thing the 19 inch C frame will work with some skins. I have a pneumatic squeezer and the only yoke I ordered other than the 3 inch yoke that the squeezer came with is a 4 inch yoke with the set being the yoke itself for tight spaces.

Dive in this is really fun. I've done everything I can on the HS and VS and am only waiting for the dang DRDT-2 so I can dimple the skins and prime. All other parts of the VS and HS are primed and ready to go.

Dimpling with a pneumatic squeezer is a piece of cake.

On a different note think of Stewart Systems for primer. I don't have experience with anything else but this stuff is pretty dang tough and it can't possibly be easier to clean up being water based.

[docrick]

I didn't take any classes for construction but I did watch the 9a empennage video a bunch of times.


And I live close to a holiday inn express.

[wzenheimer]

Originally Posted by docrick

On a different note think of Stewart Systems for primer. I don't have experience with anything else but this stuff is pretty dang tough and it can't possibly be easier to clean up being water based.

I have read all about that stuff and it is what I plan to use. Actually, I'm a car freak too and I am considering trying it out on my car just for practice.

Thanks again,
Chris

[Transporter]

You should be in great company there in St Louis with a number of RVs in the area. The 7 is a great plane.

Agree that you'll be happier with a 22" C-frame if it's your main dimpler, but if you can pick up the smaller one at little to no cost and plan to get the DRDT-2 later it won't hurt to pick up the smaller one.

I have several squeezer yokes; a good starting point is a 3" standard yoke and a 2 1/2" longeron yoke that can be swapped between both pneumatic and hand squeezers. You'll find that you want more....but these two will handle most situations on the empennage. A bench mount for the pneumatic squeezer is also real handy.

I had the same choice to make regarding building seminars; I participated in the EAA sheet metal workshop and then did both the regular and tool box practice kits from Van's, followed by lots of practice on scrap aluminum from the aircraft dept at Tractor Supply and Home Depot. So far (emp. complete) I haven't felt the need for more training. Having said that, there are other alternatives as mentioned by others. I'd also include the build center in Boone, IA if you want to get some one-on-one instruction. See http://wcaircraft.com/

Have fun!
Mike

[flytoboat]

Chris,
I went to Grov-Air in November for builder's training and I highly recommend them if you choose to go. With your situation, you might have plenty of teachers close at hand already. The first few chapters in the preview plans helped a lot too. Just make sure you get some "hands-on" with your tools before starting on the "real" parts.

[Jeff R]

Why are you waiting so long?! Order the kit and start building! Sounds like you won't have any major issue with tools.

I never did a builder's workshop and it would have been nice, but don't waste time waiting for one when you have people around you who can show you what you need. I had a steeper learning curve as I had never ever held a squeezer and didn't know what the heck a mushroom set was, but I finally figured it out. The empannage video really helped.

[jmartinez443]

Originally Posted by wzenheimer

Also, what would be the best yoke to obtain for a pneumatic squeezer, as in what type, reach, and gap for RVs?

I think a thin nose no-hole yoke and a longeron are musts.