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  #1  
Old 01-14-2008, 02:38 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default Rivets for attaching plastic NACA vents to skin

For those who riveted their plastic NACA vents to the fuse skin, what size rivet did you use? I would like to use MK319's left over from the canopy but not sure if they have sufficiently long grip. Normally I would just test this myself, but I only have the exact number I need... I can't afford to waste one on a test! Should I give them a go or just use the larger CS-4's?

(Yes, I know I could probably get by with just proseal and no rivets at all... but I'm past that stage.)

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2008, 03:27 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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About 15 years ago, I attached my NACA vents with proseal. My RV-6 has now been flying 10 years as of September and I have over 2,074 hobbs hours on it. No problems with the vents. Cannot see even a crack. They look just like they are part of the airplane.
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2008, 03:37 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Thanks Gary, but notice the last line of my post. I'm past the stage where that is an option.
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2008, 03:42 PM
Warren Moore Warren Moore is offline
 
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Default

you can always make a flange of .016 alum. around the vent for the rivets to pull/seat against. But I would still proseal it in any event.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:02 PM
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RV8RIVETER RV8RIVETER is offline
 
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I made two small half moon doublers out of scrap aluminum and then a thin layer of proseal and used normal flush rivets but soft set. No problems with distorting or cracking the vent and gave a very nice clamping force.
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:09 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV6_flyer View Post
About 15 years ago, I attached my NACA vents with proseal. My RV-6 has now been flying 10 years as of September and I have over 2,074 hobbs hours on it. No problems with the vents. Cannot see even a crack. They look just like they are part of the airplane.
How did you clamp it 'til cured. Or did you?
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:10 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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This thread is a great example of thread drift...

Back to the original, and only, question... can anyone tell me if MK-319's have sufficient reach to get through the skin, through the vent, and through an .019 backing strip?

I'm trying to get this done tonight, hence my persistance.
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:15 PM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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You guys are a bunch of whoosies. I put mine on with AN 3 rivets.

Roberta
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:16 PM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
This thread is a great example of thread drift...

Back to the original, and only, question... can anyone tell me if MK-319's have sufficient reach to get through the skin, through the vent, and through an .019 backing strip?

I'm trying to get this done tonight, hence my persistance.
The best way to know for sure is to make up a simple stackup simulating the total material thickness and set a MK-319 through it.
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  #10  
Old 01-14-2008, 04:16 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
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Default Whats wrong

with standard #3 rivets...Just cut some little scraps of alu and drill #40 holes to make backing washers and then drive them with the rivet gun just enough to hold 'em.

Worked fine for me...Goop optional...I used some paintable duct sealant.

Frank
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