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12-29-2007, 07:02 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Pulling manual elevator trim cable
Well, I just got done pulling the trim cable for my elevator, after the tail was on. This was not designed to be easy at this stage of the process, but I managed to get it done (why are the bushings slightly smaller than the cable end??). Thought I would post a quick tip to help anyone else. Getting the cable through most of the holes was not too bad, but snaking it through the HS and elevator had me scratching my head. I ended up taking an 18-inch piece of quarter-inch Al line and tapping one end of it for 10-32 threads. I was able to snake this through the elevator and HS into the area of the rear deck. I then threaded the business end of the trim cable into the Al line and was able to pull it back through the HS and elevator. It is easier to do if one removes the rubber boot on the cable ends.
I suspect there might be an easier way, particularly if the cable is installed BEFORE putting on the elevators....
greg
__________________
Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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12-29-2007, 07:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Timely Post
Pefect timing, Greg. I'm ready to assault that task ... have been putting it off a bit, actually. Did run it thru the snap bushings/holes on the L side of the tunnel as Vans shows? Did the aft cable end fit thru the snap bushings in place, or did you have to remove/replace each one as you went? Did you get the 2 aft-end locknuts off the threaded barrel OK? On mine, the ID of the nuts is slightly smaller than the rubber-boot portion of the aft cable.... I'm afraid of damaging the rubber to get the locknuts removed for cable routing.
Terry
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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12-29-2007, 07:21 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 165
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It gets easer the second and third time  . And yes it is easer with the tail feathers off.
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12-29-2007, 09:29 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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Terry,
I did put it through with the bushings in place and on the L side of the tunnel as shown on the plans. It was tight, but doable. Probably would be easier if the bushings were out of the holes, but I never found any advice on that in the instructions.... The rubber boot at the elevator end of the cable is fairly robust and you should be able to thread (unscrew) the locknuts over it. Alternatively, the rubber boot comes off fairly easily and then the nuts don't have to go over it (I found this out after the fact). I'm not sure why there are two locknuts either when it seems one would be sufficient.... perhaps someone can chime in and answer this question.
cheers,
greg
__________________
Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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12-30-2007, 06:11 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Arehart
Terry,
I'm not sure why there are two locknuts either when it seems one would be sufficient.... perhaps someone can chime in and answer this question.
cheers,
greg
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I noted on the drawings that there are no lock nuts shown at the elevator end of the cable. I asked Vans about the two locknuts that came with the cable and they said to throw them out. The cable is fixed at the front end and can't spin.
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You’re only as good as your last landing 
Bob Barrow
RV7A
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12-30-2007, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Thanks for the info, everyone.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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