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  #1  
Old 12-26-2007, 06:20 PM
ten4teg ten4teg is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kenly, NC
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Default Fuel Tank Cork Gasket Sealant

Looking for recommendations on a sealant for the fuel tank access cover cork gasket. I would like to use something that will allow easy removal if needed down the road, unlike proseal. Thanks, Tom
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2007, 06:48 PM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
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Permatex makes some brown aviation goop which I used on my 6A 4 years ago- no leaks and non- hardening. Can't remember the name of it and it's out at my hangar unfortunately.

I'll try to look it up.

I think this is the stuff: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...=FORM+A+GASKET
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Last edited by rv6ejguy : 12-26-2007 at 06:52 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:11 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Default Gasket sealer

Funny you should ask at this time Tom since I just did a little research into sealing my own fuel tank cork gaskets. It seems the best stuff out there is what Ross mentioned. It's Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No.3. It works great according to the experts on this site and is non-hardening. You can find it here in the USA at www.aircraftspruce.com and in their catalog on page 291.
A 4oz. can goes for $6.35 and a 1pt. can for $9.70. Just do a search of their site using the term form-a-gasket and it will pop right up.
The other popular option is using the tank sealer "Pro-seal" which works really good but is a one time affair and you have to sacrifice the gasket if you ever want to disassemble the cover.
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2007, 07:51 PM
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n5lp n5lp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTOM View Post
...The other popular option is using the tank sealer "Pro-seal" which works really good but is a one time affair and you have to sacrifice the gasket if you ever want to disassemble the cover.
Many, like me, have ditched the cork gasket after problems. Proseal isn't all bad!
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:31 PM
JAT JAT is offline
 
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Location: Durango, CO
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I just helped two guys do their fuel tank SB and ProSeal is very hard to get off! I used Permatex Form-A-Gasket (Aviation) on one side only to hold the cork gasket on the plate. The important difference is that I use Allen head 8-32X1/2" screws to fasten it on instead of the Phillips head screws called for in the plans. The Allen heads will allow you to torque the screws evenly; just don't overdo it. You will need a longer screw, 3/4", for the sending unit due to the thickness of the rubber gasket. Put a dab of the Permatex on the threads of all screws before installing and then give the whole works several days to dry before refilling the tanks. The above Permatex is available at NAPA Auto Parts and has Aviation on the label. The screws are available at your local hardware store in plain steel and they work fine.
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2007, 02:12 AM
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sprucemoose sprucemoose is online now
 
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Another vote for Aviation form-a-gasket. Available locally at auto parts stores. Ditto the recommendation for socket head, torx, or anything other than phillips screws.

One little trick- dip the screws into Fuel Lube or similar prior to inserting. Keeps fuel from seeping around the screws threads.
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2007, 04:28 AM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Per an Orndorff construction video suggestion, I used medium weight TiteSeal on the cork gaskets and fuel tank access covers. After 2-1/2 years of operational service, it seems to be holding up just fine.

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  #8  
Old 12-27-2007, 06:39 AM
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L.Adamson L.Adamson is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAT View Post
I just helped two guys do their fuel tank SB and ProSeal is very hard to get off!
That's because it seals so good!

When doing the SB, I initially got a bit excited (in a negative way) about the removal too; until I figured it out. I then put them back on with pro-seal only. I highly trust the pro-seal only method.

L.Adamson -- RV6A
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  #9  
Old 12-27-2007, 10:25 AM
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erich weaver erich weaver is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprucemoose View Post
One little trick- dip the screws into Fuel Lube or similar prior to inserting. Keeps fuel from seeping around the screws threads.

I dont disagree with this, but be aware that at least one screw must make a good electrical contact with the plate that it is holding or you wont have an electical ground path and your fuel level floats wont work. Ask me how I know...

Go ahead and dip those screws - but check the ground path to the adjacent root rib with a multimeter

erich
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  #10  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:49 PM
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sprucemoose sprucemoose is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erich weaver View Post
Go ahead and dip those screws - but check the ground path to the adjacent root rib with a multimeter
Excellent point. I'll go you one better- run a ground wire from the sender to a nearby screw and don't rely on the screw/platenut/proseal/gasket to form a good ground. That's what I did (maybe overkill) and my gauges work great.
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