Is this stuff junk??

[danielhv]

My dad bought a bunch of stuff from somewhere (didnt ask), bunch of aircraft stuff... So here is my question, what is this stuff??

All of the tools:




Clecos:




Deburr tool?:




Some kind of discs... looks like sanding discs without the sandpaper?:




Drill bills with some kind of protective coating:




Not sure...:

[danielhv]

Some plastic plug thing...:




Some rods with weird ends...:




Better pic of the rods:




Lots of countersink bits with the same protective coating...




Thats all the pics I took... I also got a DOTCO drill... only 900 rpm, and not bi-directional... Is any of this stuff going to be useable?

[wingtime]

yup it's all junk. mail it to me and I'll dispose of it free of charge.


No it's not junk. Looks like a bunch of clekos, countersink bits,reams, drill guide, drill bits, etc. What are you going to use it for?

[danielhv]

Originally Posted by wingtime

yup it's all junk. mail it to me and I'll dispose of it free of charge.


No it's not junk. Looks like a bunch of clekos, countersink bits,reams, drill guide, drill bits, etc. What are you going to use it for?

to build a 7A someday... if I ever get the $!!

[Transporter]

Suggest you get tool catalogs from Avery, Brown, Cleaveland, ATS, etc. and you'll be able to quickly identify what you have.

From the pictures, most of these appear to be very servicable tools. To give you an idea of value:

Clecos are about $.38/each new and the pliers are about $7.

Looks like you've got two countersink cages and a nice assortment of countersink cutters. Depends on brand, but the cages start at $25 and go up...cutters are about $5 each new.

Deburring handle with bits. Burr-Qwik handle w/one bit sells new for about $8; bits are about $2 each.

The plastic plug thing is an 'eggcup' bushing holder (holds drill bushings to ensure vertical drilling)-these sell surplus for $5, new for $22...bushings are extra...about $12 each.

Drill bit prices depend on size...

You may or may not use all of the sizes of countersink cutters, drill bits, etc. for your particular kit-hard to tell sizes from the photos-a quick check of the Avery, Cleaveland, or Isham website listings for their RV tool kits will give you a sanity check on sizes.

And if you decide to dump them, I'll get in line!

Good luck,

[osxuser]

A couple of different sizes burraway tools in Pic #6 are worth something. If you want to get rid of them ...

[WilburD2]

Just a quick look; The disc thingies look like roloc discs for scotchbrite wheels.
Noticed a couple of counterbores in there.
The drill bits in the wax coating look more like tapered reamers.
One of the counter sink cages looks like its been cut to get inside the radius of bent metal.
The cleco's look mostly like #5 sized ones (black)
I believe the odd looking rods with the notched ends are alignment pins for sheets to align them before you pop a cleco thru..

Just my $.02..

[Rick6a]

Back counterbores also called "spot faces" as shown in the first picture mate with an appropriate shaft as shown in the second picture. The shaft is chucked into a drill motor then inserted through the subject hole and then the counterbore is attached to the notched end of the shaft. While the drill motor is spinning the operator applies back pressure to the tool while it is in contact with and machining the surface of the work. The rotation of the drill motor self-locks the cutter into the notched shaft. These tools are commonly used to prepare a tapered or otherwise uneven surface or a hole drilled too close to a radius so a bolt head or more commonly a nut will sit flush against the material. For instance, I had to use this tool on my RV-6A landing gear weldments because many of the holes produced by the factory were drilled too close to the radius in the weldments making it impossible for the fastener nut to lay perfectly flush or even get a wrench around. Back counterboring (or spot facing) such holes quickly fixes that problem, but care must be taken to insure a proper counterbore is used for a particular situation or else you can easily make a bad situation worse.

The protective rubbery coating is applied to protect cutting edges from exposure and damage, especially during storage. The coating is commonly seen on all manner of resharpened cutting tools including drill bits, reamers, rotary files, countersink cutters, etc. Typical aircraft stuff.

[TerryWighs]

The one picture with the shaft like tools with a small blade that is toward the tip end are really awesome deburring tools. The blade should easily push back into the shaft with finger pressure, and be sharp if not worn out. Careful.

[gmcjetpilot]

Clecos, Cleco pliers are tool #1. You can't have enough of either. They do wear out. I have about 5 or 6 cleco pliers. I miss place them and always have a few extras around.

The drills and countersinks might be too large to use.

Deburr tool is that, it deburss an edge of sheet metal. The blades wear out and this is a useful tool if its sharp. I like ones with long handles at 90 degrees.

The "Not Sure" are cool back deburring tools. You pop through a blind hole you can't get to and deburr the back side, I believe. It looks too large to use and frankly we don't have too many holes you can't deburr both sides before assembly. MOST RV HOLES in a RV are for 3/32" rivets (#40 drill) and 1/8" rivets (#30 drill). There are other sizes but these are most of the holes.

The "plastic plug thing" is a drill guide. With a hand drill you get good drilling perpendicular. Also when dilling through 0.032" sheet metal you can't make the hole too crooked. These drill guides come with custom sizes bushings. I have a few and use them. However if you want a straight HOLE..... do it on the drill press. When drilling thick items you do want to be straight because a wondering angled hole is not pretty.

You will need to buy new quality tools, dimple dies, lots of #30, #40 drill bits & counter sinks and $1000 worth or more. Check out Cleaveland Tools. I'd buy dimple dies from Cleaveland. If you buy cheap ones, they bugger up the dimples or are not pretty. Best advice DONT BUY CHEAP TOOLS. You might get by some places but it usually bites you. If it touches the metal, like dimple dies or fluting pliers, pay the money and get quality. Look at the tool kits cleaveland sells. You don't have to buy a tool kit, but it will give you an idea of what is available. As you get started you will see what you need. There is nothing wrong with buying tools as you need them. Eventually you will have 75% or 80% of one of those deluxe tool kits.

Do get a real, good compressor (not a oil-less Sears) and air-tools at min are drill and rivet gun, rivet dies and bucking bars. I like a 2X gun, some like a 3X gun. Again the don't go cheap rule rules with these basic tools you will use 100% from start to finish. Check out the cleaveland "get me started kit". (A rivet squeezer is not a must, but once you use one you won't go back.) Again I can't tell you how nickle and dime-ing for cheap tools will bite you. Trust me I learned as a registered cheap-skate not to cheap out on tools. Check Cleaveland tools FAQ & Videos. You can buy tools any place you want (except dimple dies get them at Cleaveland). The Cleaveland folks built an award winning RV and you'll not get junk there. However do comparative shop, make sure you are getting apples for apples or apples. ATS is OK, but they mix up some el-cheapo stuff with good stuff. It's been a long time since I bought from ATS and was not happy, but things may have changed. Don't get overwhelmed with tools, you will know what you need when you needed it. Power tool wise a drill press and bandsaw are on the top of the nice to have list.