OK location for fuse blocks?

alpinelakespilot2000 · #1 12-23-2007, 01:48 PM

Is this an OK position for my fuse blocks?

I know a lot of people mount them on vertical surfaces, but is there any issue with mounting them on the back of the panel where, theoretically, the fuses could fall out of the blocks since the panel slopes slightly forward. I can't imagine that the fuses actually would have any tendency to fall out, because they insert very tightly, but I couldn't find anyting in 43.13b or elsewhere re: best practices on this.

The reason I'd like to have them attached to the panel is because I'm fabricating a pull out/tilt-down panel. The more I can keep wires attached to the panel, the easier this is.

Thanks for your thoughts.

L.Adamson · #2 12-23-2007, 02:14 PM

The problem I see, is a lot of wasted space on the front of the panel, since just about everything installed has depth. And even an empty spot may be used later by you, or another owner.

My panel has no instruments or gauges there, but it's also a deep glove box in that location.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

Norman CYYJ · #3 12-23-2007, 02:26 PM

Turn the fuse blocks around and face them into the cockpit where you can change a blown fuse while in flight. Also mounting the fuse block there wastes a tremendous amount of panel space, if they are hidden on the forward side.

Sam Buchanan · #4 12-23-2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

Is this an OK position for my fuse blocks?

I know a lot of people mount them on vertical surfaces, but is there any issue with mounting them on the back of the panel where, theoretically, the fuses could fall out of the blocks since the panel slopes slightly forward. I can't imagine that the fuses actually would have any tendency to fall out, because they insert very tightly, but I couldn't find anyting in 43.13b or elsewhere re: best practices on this.

The reason I'd like to have them attached to the panel is because I'm fabricating a pull out/tilt-down panel. The more I can keep wires attached to the panel, the easier this is.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Steve, I think your setup will work fine. I can't imagine a fuse falling out of the block considering how hard it is to remove one of the little buggers.

If you are not planning on using that area of the panel for anything else I can see how localizing your wiring on the modular panel would be really tidy.

As far as replacing fuses in flight.....well.....we've already put that issue to bed (I'm assuming you are a Nuckolls student).

alpinelakespilot2000 · #5 12-23-2007, 05:27 PM

Thanks for the thoughts. I think I've anticipated most of them:

Quote:

Originally Posted by L.Adamson

The problem I see, is a lot of wasted space on the front of the panel, since just about everything installed has depth. And even an empty spot may be used later by you, or another owner.

My panel has no instruments or gauges there, but it's also a deep glove box in that location.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

Good point. That said, I have everything I need in the panel already for a good VFR cross country mission and even have, if you look just below the fuse blocks, the map box in the panel already. As far as needing an empty spot later, I still have one empty location for a 3-1/8" cutout on the left side of the panel. I also could pretty easily relocate the fuse blocks to sit horizontally on top of the map box (without having to do any major re-wiring) and that would free up all of that panel space on the right side. I have only avoided mounting the fuse blocks on the map box to begin with because the panel pulls out a little easier if I unscrew the map box from the panel first.

Worst case scenario, having cut my own panel already, I realized how fast and quick it would be to cut a new one if necessary. That might not help a future owner who might be intimidated by cutting out a panel him/herself, but (knock on wood) I have no plans to sell.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norman CYYJ

Turn the fuse blocks around and face them into the cockpit where you can change a blown fuse while in flight. Also mounting the fuse block there wastes a tremendous amount of panel space, if they are hidden on the forward side.

I did take your idea seriously, Norman, and really appreciated the pictures you sent me of your installation. So far I've avoided that only because, aesthetically, I preferred the look of the uncut panel and don't want to see the fuses or even a cover over a panel cutout.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan

Steve, I think your setup will work fine. I can't imagine a fuse falling out of the block considering how hard it is to remove one of the little buggers.

If you are not planning on using that area of the panel for anything else I can see how localizing your wiring on the modular panel would be really tidy.

As far as replacing fuses in flight.....well.....we've already put that issue to bed (I'm assuming you are a Nuckolls student).

Yes, for a VFR aircraft, my opinion (only) is that there should be no need to replace fuses in flight and that doing so might be ill-advised. And yes, localizing the wire is really important for the pull-out/tilt feature of my panel.

Other ideas? I'll try to post a picture of the front of my panel to put my question into better context. Thanks again to all for helping me think through this issue.

Gerald Clabots · #6 12-23-2007, 05:49 PM

I hinged mine from the sub panel, mounted on a pice of .032 and used a 1\4 turn eared fastner(like Vans supplies for the oil door) in the instrument panel bottom flange to hold it in place.
I can swing it down in fight if required and no concern that the fuses might fall out which I doubt they woud anyway, but it leaves all that panel space avaiable for future addition if you decide to add somrthing, also easier if you decide to add anothe circuit later.
Gerry

alpinelakespilot2000 · #7 12-23-2007, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerald Clabots

I hinged mine from the sub panel, mounted on a pice of .032 and used a 1\4 turn eared fastner(like Vans supplies for the oil door) in the instrument panel bottom flange to hold it in place.
I can swing it down in fight if required and no concern that the fuses might fall out which I doubt they woud anyway, but it leaves all that panel space avaiable for future addition if you decide to add somrthing, also easier if you decide to add anothe circuit later.
Gerry

As I described above, my panel will pull out and tilt. Using a swing down fuse panel would complicate that and the pull out/tilt feature of the panel should make future circuit additions pretty easy.

alpinelakespilot2000 · #8 12-23-2007, 08:07 PM

Here is the picture of the panel (see post 162) to show why I have all that extra space on the right side:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...t=1743&page=17

Again, does anyone else have any thoughts on whether it is OK to have the fuse block position at that slight down-angle?

L.Adamson · #9 12-23-2007, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

I also could pretty easily relocate the fuse blocks to sit horizontally on top of the map box (without having to do any major re-wiring) and that would free up all of that panel space on the right side.

Unless your tilt and pull panel is a two second job, which it doesn't look like from the pics, I wouldn't put the fuse block on top of the map box either. While it's easy to access when the top skin is not on, it's near impossible to get to from underneath.

My blocks are on the subpanel behind the main, and still a bit hard to get to the fuses, with all the wiring in the way. I used a combination of fuses (on the subpanel) and some pullable circuit breakers in the area of your blank panel.

My panel is also in three removeable sections. The center is easy to remove, but the sides require disconnects of several gauges. Just makes it easy for future panel design changes.

L.Adamson

alpinelakespilot2000 · #10 12-23-2007, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L.Adamson

Unless your tilt and pull panel is a two second job, which it doesn't look like from the pics, I wouldn't put the fuse block on top of the map box either. While it's easy to access when the top skin is not on, it's near impossible to get to from underneath.

Correct, I have to remove about 20-25 screws for my panel to pull out and tilt down and give me complete access to the fuses (or the rest of the panel, for that matter). I'm not planning to have to chase down popped fuses very often (if ever), though, so I'm OK with that inconvenience. Thus, the back of panel or top of map box should be fine as far as future access. If the wiring works out as planned, I shouldn't have to break any connections when the whole thing tilts. We shall see though. Thanks for the thoughts.