Rudder cable clevis interfering with stiffener

Rockyjs · #1 12-17-2007, 03:14 PM

Has anyone else had an interference issue with the rudder cable clevis and the first bushing. I rechecked my rudder throw within limits and adjusted the rudder rod end bearings in as far as I can effectively moving the cables forward. At full rudder, the end of the cable clevis contacts the bushing and then pops through about 1/4 to 3/16" past the stiffener.

Capflyer · #2 12-17-2007, 04:01 PM

I had the same problem and I believe it to be a common one. To fix mine I bent each of the steel connecting pieces with 2 - 45deg angles to give them a sort of "S" shaped bend. They now line up very nicely with the bushing holes.

Thought I had a picture but "no joy".

Kyle Boatright · #3 12-17-2007, 04:25 PM

This seems to be a fairly common problem. On my airplane I split a piece of clear nylon tubing about a foot long and used it to encapsulate the clevis and the cable. I used safety wire to fasten it to the clevis at one end and the cable at the other.

The nylon tubing rides in the first bushing through the entire range of rudder travel and eliminates the problem you describe.

I believe this is called a fairlead in technical jargon...

Rockyjs · #4 12-17-2007, 05:45 PM

Thanks guys. Good ideas! I searched and couldn't find anything about it so I thought I probably had something screwed up.

Noah · #5 12-18-2007, 10:37 AM

I had this problem too, but I assumed that it was because my rudder travel exceeded the required value by several degrees. Is this common? I didn't remove any material from the rudder stops. Still plenty of clearance to the elevator and elevator trim in all possible positions, so I didn't worry about it. Anybody else have way more rudder travel than required? I don't think it would ever be necessary for the rudder to hit those limits anyway, and I can't think of where this could present a problem (in flight or on ground), so I had planned to leave it as is.

I like the tubing over the cable, as long as there's absolutely no way for it to bind.

Highest Regards,

Sparky · #6 12-18-2007, 11:50 AM

I faricated my rudder stops 1/8" longer than plans due to reports by other builders of rudder travel exceeding limits. Without any trimming of the stops my rudder travel is right at the limits in both directions with 1 1/8" clearance with the elevators. With this setup I have the same issue of the rudder cable clevis interference with the first bushing prior to the rudder hitting the stops in both left and right directions that Rockyjs reports. I like the idea of the nylon tubing from Kyle. I assume you would have to split the tubing to install it on the cable. Several boating supply houses have pre-split tubing used on mast cables, so I think I'll try that.

Brantel · #7 12-18-2007, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockyjs

What paint did you use? I like that texture and looks like it would be durable and hide imperfections in the paint. Is that true?

Rockyjs · #8 12-18-2007, 09:01 PM

The paint is Rustoleum Hammered silver. It comes in rattle cans, but I used the quart size so I could shoot it with some consistency. With proper prep it seems to hold up well. I like the color and you're correct it can hide blemishes very well.

Here is a link

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=159