FLT Cancelled - Flap Motor TU

[rv6ejguy]

No problem with mine to date but I only lower the flaps to get out of the plane easier. Flapless landings for me 19 times out of 20 unless some 172 is flying bomber patterns in front of me.

RVs land very sweet clean. A technique learned from a really good instructor when I was getting checked out in a Tiger. We don need no stinkin' flaps.

I agree it would be a problem if they were down and wouldn't come up though. Fingers crossed.

[McFly]

105 hours with no problems but now I want Chad's setup.

[plehrke]

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

RVs land very sweet clean. A technique learned from a really good instructor when I was getting checked out in a Tiger. We don need no stinkin' flaps.

I learned that in my 140. Only time I used flaps in the 140 is once during a BFR when my instructor ask to see if they worked.

In my RV I usually use flaps but that same instructor in my BFR wanted me to do all my landing without flaps. He said he does that with all students in planes with electric flaps. Slips are easy in both planes (a lot less aileron required in the RV)

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by lrfrey

That actuator looks really good. The only questions I would have are how does the speed (.5"/sec X 4"= 8 seconds to 30 degrees of flap) and load (110 lbs) compare to the Van's unit?

The speed sounds close but since I'm not quite flying I haven't timed it under load. I have no idea what the load rating on the Van's unit is, don't ever recall seeing it published (I haven't really looked for it). I see it has an internal limit switch too, that's nice.

I agree, 30 degrees should be sufficient flaps. Seems to me that you could get back to the full 40 degrees if you chose to shorten the arm on the flap weldment, tho that would probably increase the load on the actuator. Still, if the actuator is strong enough....maybe.

Larry

With both motors on the bench I did some comparisons.

Vans vrs AEI
Extension 5" 4"
Push Tube Dia .63 .75
Unit Weight 1.5 lbs 2.0 lbs
Limit switches no yes
Full Extension Time 5 seconds 5 seconds
(no load)
Cost $320 $147

Could be Vans unit is special because of the 5" extension. The units available from DC Actuators are in even numbers - 4", 6" etc. Also, the 4" unit will require some modification to install it, the rod end bearing can not be used as is and there isn't enough end plug in the push rod to drill and tap it, its only about .75". I had the unit apart to see how it was made.

The Vans unit worked without hesitation on the bench. I'm inclined to check the brushes and reinstall it and see what happens. If I get really frustrated, I'll call Chad for the drawings or start flying flaps up like Ross.

[sbarger24]

Hey Chad,

I think you should go into production with that modification. I'll buy the first one

Steve

[cjensen]

Originally Posted by sbarger24

Hey Chad,

I think you should go into production with that modification. I'll buy the first one

Steve

Thanks Steve! I have thought about it, but the problem I see is that if I started selling enough of them, Van's would option it again, and that'd be the end of it. They'd be able to price it much better as a kit option. It definitely has crossed my mind more than once though.

[rvpilot]

The Vans unit worked without hesitation on the bench. I'm inclined to check the brushes and reinstall it and see what happens.

Had the same thing happen, got it back in the plane and it wouldn't work! Pulled it back out, found a wire broke just inside the molded brush case. If you moved the wire just right, it worked great!

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by rvpilot

Had the same thing happen, got it back in the plane and it wouldn't work! Pulled it back out, found a wire broke just inside the molded brush case. If you moved the wire just right, it worked great!

Thanks. I better check it over carefully.

[David-aviator]

The flap motor has been disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled and it works. Here's what I found - a small amount of grease from the gear chamber, some oily dirt in the cap and on the brushes, but overall the unit did not look that bad.

My brain must have had a memory lapse. I've had the motor problem before and thought I replaced it, but there is no record of it. After taking the motor apart, I am reasonably certain it is the original purchased some time in 01 or 02. It is a Motion device, not a Pitman. If I had bought a new one, it would be a Pitman as they came out in 02. Also, stamped on the gear housing under the motor is a 10/01 which may mean October 2001, perhaps a late Motion unit. The problem motors with too much grease were late Motion units. I must have cleaned the unit and it has worked 3 or 4 years since. Well, it just got cleaned again.

Anyway, those of you with the Pitmans should be ok. I'm quite certain I have one of the grease monkey units and will have to deal with it.

[tadsargent]

I have become a pro at cleaning the flap motor. I lasts a year this way.

I get two sandwich bag wires and wire the brush springs back and remove the brush housing. The next step is the key. Clean out the cracks of the commutator. I use a cotton swab and brush on alcohol. Then I find business cards from those pesky insurance salesmen and clean the cracks thoroughly, then use a very fine sand paper and shine the commutator till it looks new. Next attack the brushes and clean them with a cotton swab till they come home clean as well.

I know this will work for you and anyone who buys a new one I'll take your old one off your hands.

Tad "Stripes" Sargent
7A